cross link gear change

Laverdalothar

Laverdalothar

Hero member
Location
Germany
Folks,

I am considering to use a cross-link gear change rod for the Motoplast (I know, I know... there is a reason behind it, just let not debate on that, please). However, I am afraid of the actuation beeing a bit sticky and for sure not as good as the direct actuation approach. So.... I am considering making up some brackets with needle bearings in them that just bolt onto the original places. Has anyone ever done something like that, please? I have no choice for a different place for that rod to rund from right to left than directly behind the engine, so that would be what I would consider to do...

cheers

Lothar
 
I'd say my crossover linkage (bog standard but set up carefully) was excellent, a deal better than the one on my RGS for some reason.
 
RGS with cross over?  :o 

or do you mean cross dresser... (120?, you know...)  :-*

screwed my own threat now...  ::)

back to original question, please!

Reason why I consider that is simply: Lighter action, less trouble. I can not use the original setup anyway, as the Motoplast frame gives very little room between engine and frame on the left side where the bracket mounts to the engine case. therefore I need to develop something anyway to move the bracket 2-3 cm to the center of the bike or same amount out so it does not conflict with the frame and is easy to take off even if the engine is still in the frame.
 
I've made up cross linkages for a number of bikes now. The std 180 crossover isn't the worst I've seen by a long way.
I personally wouldn't use needle rollers - you'd have to be very very close on alignment to get good results.
Usually I either use nylon bushings - as std Laverda - or run the shaft in heim joints. The heim joints have the benefit of being self aligning and are available in male or female thread to suit whichever way you want to mount them.
 
Greg's on the money. Nylon bearings and Heim joints are the way to go. Gear shift linkages, whether crossover, rearset or both can be made to work perfectly. With careful setup they can be made with negligible friction or slack.
I have a crossover on my Jota and it works well. If someone unfamiliar rode the bike, they wouldn't know it was a cross-linkage shift from the feel of it.
 
I removed mine very early on from acquiring my bike, got sick of the false neutrals. Mine is a 3c with a drum rear brake and to achieve a left side gear change they used about a metre long rear brake cable looped from the right side foot lever over the guard and across to the left side wheel brake actuator. 100% easier to go right change for my bike.
 
;-) I am able to google, but thanks  :D

I will use them where ever possible. the Nylon bearings is a good advice! Hadn't considered that... what thickness would it take to make them reliable? 2mm?
 
Thanks a lot, thought about making some on my own with a Lathe, but mould-injected ones have a smoother surface => less restriction I guess.

Worked for Igus btw. when I was 16...
 
Vince said:
I removed mine very early on from acquiring my bike, got sick of the false neutrals. Mine is a 3c with a drum rear brake and to achieve a left side gear change they used about a metre long rear brake cable looped from the right side foot lever over the guard and across to the left side wheel brake actuator. 100% easier to go right change for my bike.
Click to expand...
Hi Vince, Due to a slight handicap on right foot I need a conversion for my 1000 3c. Cannot use the bolted on engine version because it lacks the mounting holes on the backside of the engine. So I am in need of the version with the brakecable running from left to right. have you still got the parts or helpful information ?
 
Gees no sorry, that was done in 1989. The brake cable that crosses over was insanely long, and the links for the gear change were badly sloppy resulting in heaps of false neutrals. Maybe the usual suppliers might have some bits to help.
 
Hi Ed, and welcome to the forum.

The 3C used a cross-over system attached to the underside of the frame rather than the back of the engine like the 3CL. Someone might have the parts for sale if they've converted one back to right gearshift. Otherwise you might have to make a custom job. Put a notice in the "Wanted" section of this forum.

They don't have to be sloppy if you use nicely fitted bushes and Heim joints. I know if 3 bikes near me that have the early (3C) cross linkage. I could take some photos and measurements if that would be a help. You'll need a right side brake pedal and a longer brake cable. I think the frames were made with the lug for the cable outer on both sides to accommodate right or left brake.
 
Dellortoman said:
The 3C used a cross-over system attached to the underside of the frame rather than the back of the engine like the 3CL. Someone might have the parts for sale if they've converted one back to right gearshift. Put a notice in the "Wanted" section of this forum.

. I know if 3 bikes near me that have the early (3C) cross linkage. I could take some photos and measurements if that would be a help. You'll need a right side brake pedal and a longer brake cable. I think the frames were made with the lug for the cable outer on both sides to accommodate right or left brake.
Click to expand...
This is the crossover linkage from the Handbook Parts List, which came with mine:

Left Hand Gearchange.jpg
 
Hello all, Apologies for late response and thanks for help. I do have a frame with cable lugs on both sides and would highly appreciate measurements, pictures and photo's Dellortoman. I cannot find where and how the crossover system is attached to the frame. I want to avoid welding ofcourse.
 
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