Top Tips (ways of curing niggles on your Laverda)

The Sock

The Sock

Hero member
Location
London, England
I got tired of the amount of slop, lengthways, in my twistgrip. Over the years it has managed to wear quite a groove on the inside of the switch clamp.
Damascene moment occurs: Shim it, and fortunately I have the very thing among my spares stock. Front ball-joint shims for my Morris Mini, I'm pretty sure the same size ones were used on many British and probably other classic cars. They're available in a range of thicknesses and fit perfectly. just slit the side and fit them onto the twistgrip. A little encouragement with a screwdriver, as you refit the switch clamp to the twistgrip, and order is restored.
Feels like new!

IMG_7895.JPG
 
Most new grip packets come with a clear plastic shim, orange dirt bike ones are the go! Your steel shim looks WAY too heavy.....

PS, my old pommie cars have hand reamed king pins, none of that modern ball joint rubbish.....
 
martymoose said:
Most new grip packets come with a clear plastic shim, orange dirt bike ones are the go! Your steel shim looks WAY too heavy.....

PS, my old pommie cars have hand reamed king pins, none of that modern ball joint rubbish.....
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i think the plastic ones go between switchblock and grip, Marty. Hamish's fits inside the housing, if I understand correctly.
 
The best fix I found was reducing the stupid double twist to get full throttle, anyway, it's good to hear people ride them enough to wear out parts. That's a good thing.
 
[Jota]
I found holding the throttle open on long journeys hard (despite my best efforts at right wrist muscle building as a teenager). So, gradually reducing carb return spring length (pre-load), disconecting the pumpers, making sure the cable all runs as straight as possible and, importantly, accurately aligning the 3 bell brank pivots at the top of the carbs saved the day and gives a very light throttle. Bike even feels faster and more responsive :)
 
Haggis said:
[Jota]
I found holding the throttle open on long journeys hard (despite my best efforts at right wrist muscle building as a teenager). So, gradually reducing carb return spring length (pre-load), disconecting the pumpers, making sure the cable all runs as straight as possible and, importantly, accurately aligning the 3 bell brank pivots at the top of the carbs saved the day and gives a very light throttle. Bike even feels faster and more responsive :)
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Done all that but my hand hates holding a steady throttle for any length of time, gets incredibly painful. I learnt to steer and control throttle with my left hand crossed over to the rh side to relieve it. For the Breganze trip last year I fitted a friction throttle lock system, extremely easy to use and was an absolute godsend.
 
piranha-bro2 said:
i think the plastic ones go between switchblock and grip, Marty. Hamish's fits inside the housing, if I understand correctly.
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Correct, Quentin. I realised, after I'd finished the job, that I should've taken photos.
I'm not re-opening it, now, but these externals show (1): At rest (2): Pulled outwards (3): Pushed inwards.
Previously there was a good 5mm+ of slop.
IMG_7901.JPGIMG_7902.JPGIMG_7903.JPG
 
I had a Kwaka MX barrel with my own custom-cut 'cam' rising rate in mine before I went to FCRs - could then use a std barrel due to light spring tension and short travel.
 
The bloke who ran the Oz Suzuki Road Race team, Phil Talon advertised in the local bike mags a way to add an external plastic ring he glued to the cable connection to standard throttles that increased their diameter and converted them to quick action. I had my Laverda one done. Later, I used a Fireblade one when I ran CV carbs. I think I still use that with the Mikunis on the bike now. Mine is not 1/4 turn, it's a bit more, but well less than the double turn standard Laverda ones.
 
Light springs are really great in my standard carb setup on the jota. Reunited Chris had a few sets made up, it's how they should have come from the factory. Had the jota out for a fang last weekend, kept wondering what the electrical miss was, then I looked down at the tacho, ooopppps, that redline sure comes up quick!
 
I have the lightest of the three spring options in my PHF36ers (TOG) and (like Haggis) I have cut rings off them several times, starting with a 20mm length and then a ring at a time, cant remember how many and still too heavy, more chopping needed but a bit scared of going past the point of no return (pun not intended) when I was racing the Monty it was previously fitted with a quick action throttle grip, it was racing right? so getting the thing wide open quickly was vital? err no it wasnt, it was much too heavy and not enough sensitivity feel, especially in the wet and with the way the Monty comes on cam, so I fitted a stock grip and lighter/shortened springs. It was much more pleasant to race like that, being able to feed in on exiting corners and make tiny adjustments to stop the rear end coming round, then flat out down the straight, an added kill button to aid flat out changes and a rear brake lever under the clutch lever, (with a cable running down to the stock master cylinder) at least 3 years before Doohan thought of it, still never won a championship or even a race, but got a few podiums.
CLEM
 
Doohan had that done after he smashed up his leg. He could be heard by the television audio, braking into corners “Fuck me that hurts” ….. actually, I just made that up.

Back to Laverda niggles fixes. Anyone found a fix for the 81 - 82 Jota cracked front mudguard/fender thingy, before it happens.
 
chrisk said:
Doohan had that done after he smashed up his leg. He could be heard by the television audio, braking into corners “Fuck me that hurts” ….. actually, I just made that up.

Back to Laverda niggles fixes. Anyone found a fix for the 81 - 82 Jota cracked front mudguard/fender thingy, before it happens.
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Red's Brace. 😉
 
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