750 Gearbox sprocket and seals

[Paul Marx]

It's a lot easier to get on than off so when you put it on, you want to prepare the off by making sure it's not too tight, just enough.
Paul

 

[Simonr501]

Wise words from Paul and Grant.

I had the opposite problem - old sprocket was loose on the spline and it had flogged it out a bit.
I suspect that the locking tab was not secured at one point or it was not accurately made.
Luckily the new sprocket was a tighter fit and the locking tab fitted nicely (after I had made it slightly thinner with a bit of emery).

I actually think your problem is better than mine as once the spline is knackered then ideally it needs replacement.

 

[sfcpiet]

Hooksey,

I'm quite glad the sprockets available nowadays are a tight fit, no chance of fucking up the mainshaft splines through loose fit.

I fit an internal puller in the groove of the securing clip of the clutch pushrod oil seal.  With the bridge support that comes with that, I proceed to push the new sprocket onto the shaft, quick and easy and no chance of burning down the workshop in the process!

For examples, see http://www.kukko.com/index.cfm/DE/abc_inside/

piet

 

[hooksey]

Piet ,

Im hearing you on the flogged out splines , got one on the triple 
will replace that only when motor needs to come out .

Will give the internal puller trick a go , Piccy says a thousand words .

Thanks for ya input on this one. 

 

[redax5]

new sprockets these days are a tight fit but are a tight fit mainly because the tip of each spline needs a small chamfer
don't touch the splines themselves, they are a great fit as is
I use a pencil grinder to just remove the tip off each spline on the sprocket itself, just a touch, you are only removing the sharp edge, it fouls on the root of the mating spline on the shaft
they are then a perfect fit, tap on with slight force only

been doing this for years now and I generally tip each sprocket we sell as well before we post them out

HTH
Red

 

[hooksey]

Road test t,day , all good thanks to all for the tips. 

Red, the removal of leading edge of new sprocket worked a treat as far
as fitting to spline. Still needed a heavy  hand to nudge it home.

Gear selection even better with a jiggle of gearbox cover and selector drum
before fixing.

Found a bit of nice handywork on the selector mechanism whilst in their .

 

[Dellortoman]

Looks like it was welded by the same bloke who built chriskay's frame.
On second thoughts, maybe not. That weld is too good!

Cheers,
Cam

 

[sfcpiet]

Hooksey,

The gear shift return spring is mounted incorrectly!  The arms should be parallel, not at an angle to each other.  Results in miles of slop at the lever.

The spring needs to be opened instead of wound tighter over the return stop.  Should slip over the eccentric adjuster quite tightly.

piet

 

[hooksey]

Well bugger me ,  good pick/up Piet. 

That would explain the wear on the inside of cover from the wound spring
moving in and out on the eccentric post .. mmmm

Back in for a look see t/morra.

Ta , Hooksey

 

[sfcpiet]

And while you're at it, check to see if the washer on the shifter shaft is present.  This is located outboard of the spring, between spring and cover, to prevent it buckling and then blocking the movement of the slector quadrant.

Any old steel washer of approx 1mm thickness wil do.  It is of the same size that is normally located between shift lever and cover to retain the o-ring in its' groove.

piet

 

[mcnicol]

Hooksey, I'd also spend about $2 and replace the little coil selector return spring. They break and you're stuck in one gear, maybe on the wrong side of town or wherever. Yours is stretched and is a little more likely to break without warning.
Just ask any member of Team OzLaverda if it's a good idea to replace these things before they break 

Ken