Oh, you mean it's similar to the Laverda drums? Setting these up seems to be wizardry/black magic for most...I’d suggest the only thing ‘comical’ about the Beezumph conical front drum, is the effort the ignorant put into covering up their inability to set up said brake properly.
Not as good as the previous twin leading drum of the Triumph/BSA group but not as bad as the reputation it’s been tarred with. IMO.
The Mead and Tomkinson BSA managed to finish second with it at Barcelona in 1971, in between the 2 factory SFCs.A Beezumph comical drum that works?
piet
No need to brake.The Mead and Tomkinson BSA managed to finish second with it at Barcelona in 1971, in between the 2 factory SFCs.
Marnix
Yes, but they certainly knew what they were doing! M&T had loads of innovative solutions on all their bikes.The Mead and Tomkinson BSA managed to finish second with it at Barcelona in 1971, in between the 2 factory SFCs.
Marnix
Very nice Steve! It's actually a lot less obtrusive than my OCD would allow.
Been comtemplating this myself but currently don't have a project I would want to fit it to... maybe the 750 flat tracker that's running around in the back of my brain.
How is the lever/switchblock clearance when deployed?
piet
With the adjuster it's a few different pieces, with some steel there I think. Would need disassembly before either blasting or stripping, most likely why it's still black now!Just stick the lever a couple of minutes, literally in caustic soda and it'll come out nice and shiny.
Paul
I got mine from ebay US, paid the significant freight, paid the AU GST automatically applied. Still under au$500 even with a shitty exchange rate IIRC. As I mentioned, it's not cheap, but I very much doubt the alternatives would be less. And you're in Norway, richest country in the world, reinvesting it's natural resources winfall into it's people instead of giving it for free to a couple of billionaires. Stop whingeing.The Magura system is listed as either black or silver on the website I get. Not available in Norway anyway from the accessory joints (out of stock, none planned) so it would be the big import tax bonus for the collectors.
Perfect, Steve, thanks a lot!!! This is something to be put into the Wiki-section I would say so it can be found easier in the future! If you don't mind, I'll make a PDF out of it and ask the admins to get it on there.Hi @Laverdalothar ,
The kit I used was part number 2100309 to suit 2010-16 Kawa Z1000. Here's one:
The hose length was fine for my Jota with Renthal 'flat' one piece bars, I expect it would also be fine for stock jota bars for anyone unfortunate enough to still use those. Really high bars might require a longer hose, perhaps there is a suitable alternative kit. Note the lever comes in silver or black, silver looks better on the old clunkers, so be sure any alternative number you get has the silver lever.Magura 2100309 Hymec Hydraulic Clutch Conversion System | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Magura 2100309 Hymec Hydraulic Clutch Conversion System at the best online prices at eBay!www.ebay.com.au
I copied the esteemed @CJMAC who trod this path before me with his SF2. He initially fitted it with the DAM extended lever and the operation was TOO LIGHT and was unbalanced with the other controls. A return to the stock release lever makes it perfect.
As mentioned, it comes pre-bled and does not require disassembly of that to fit.
The only slight modification I made was the adapter sleeve shown here:
View attachment 88056
The shiny silver bit is a separate tophat shaped piece to adapt the slave cylinder to various bikes. The hole in the Laverda crankcase is M8x1.0, so the through diameter is~7mm. The sleeve that came with the kit is 8mm outside diameter, so I turned it down to 7mm. It's a bit iffy because the inside diameter of that sleeve is 6mm from memory, so only 0.5mm wall thickness. In reality, all it does is centralise the slave cylinder and hold it a bit more securely, you could probably do without it altogether. Maybe then the stroke might not quite work, in which case put a few 8mm washers over it to match the thickness of the step in the tophat piece. The best option might be an M8x1.0 bolt drilled to 6mm thru and the head turned down to just a couple of mm thick like the adapter sleeve, but it's really not necessary. The cylinder is stabilised by the internal spring which exerts a slight pressure on the release system.
It's a brilliant bit of kit that just works, is easy to fit, requires no mods to the bike, is mineral oil based so does not absorb water, is away from the front sprocket so does not absorb chain grease and dirt into the hydraulics.
The kit is perhaps a bit pricey, but it's probably competitive or cheaper than the alternatives and retains the look of the original cover.
Can you tell I like it?
Cheers
SteveB
(Post edited to correct diameters above)
You should be able to add it yourself, Lothar. Or at least, that's how I hope the user permissions are set!Perfect, Steve, thanks a lot!!! This is something to be put into the Wiki-section I would say so it can be found easier in the future! If you don't mind, I'll make a PDF out of it and ask the admins to get it on there.
They are.You should be able to add it yourself, Lothar. Or at least, that's how I hope the user permissions are set!
This is the official document by Magura, you can order a system for Laverda:Magura hymec is another excellent option. I put one on the Jota and it's brilliant. Don't need to remove the sprocket cover, even comes pre-bled, just fit and enjoy a nice light and friction-free clutch. Both master and slave cylinders are very small and hardly noticeable.
View attachment 88044
That's brilliant to know! Is there any reference number or similar?This is the official document by Magura, you can order a system for Laverda:
Now I remember......So that's with a long lever arm at the motor AND a hydro system. Then I can understand too light - otherwise I'd say the clutch springs are too light or there's so little travel at the pushrod you wouldn't be able top ride it.