750 Oil Pump

Shajota

Hero member
Location
Whitsundays Qld
I am reassembling oil pump and notice the green book says to centre punch the screws.
I was going to put some anti seize on the screws however now I presume should put some loctite on them?
(nothing on the mating surfaces)
Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
Thanks Ernesto.
However I have another problem reassembling the clutch.
Clutch is early style with pegs. I have put new plates in and while I can compress springs to try and put peg in, there is not enough clearance to allow it to go in straight. I have tried without the spring and it will go in with just the pressure plate but when I put in the Spring holder (which has a collar) the pressure plate is not quite in far enough to allow the peg to enter the hole straight. Can get the peg in to the hole at an angle so not much more clearance needed.
Are these new clutch plates just too thick or is there another trick? (It is well away from the thrust peg - it is just the thickness of the clutch pack) The old friction plates averaged 3.3mm while the new plates are 3.5mm +/-. 
Hope all that makes sense to someone..............
 
Hi, Peter.
I'm sure you know this and have checked. but just for completeness:
the old-style clutch has one friction-plate (and steel-plate) less than the
newer type.

Ernesto
 
Yep, replacement set bought from Wolfgang. When installed the clutch pack just seems a bit wide to allow access to slots.
Can't find what the thickness of the plates for this model should be??
 
Shajota said:
I am reassembling oil pump and notice the green book says to centre punch the screws.
I was going to put some anti seize on the screws however now I presume should put some loctite on them?
(nothing on the mating surfaces)
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Can't understand why they need to be centre punched - if they're tightened sufficiently they shouldn't loosen - insurance I guess - I'm fitting black cap screws to my double-row SF pumps and will use a touch of Loctite.
 
An idea 'stolen' from Piet  :-*, then modified to my smaller (12mm vs 16mm) version. It's necessary to machine 5 or 6mm from the oil pump face on the cases, so many will shy away at this point - although there's still plenty of bushed support for the shaft.

I had four SF oil pumps and two motors to build, so for each I machined one pump body down to create a spacer the exact width of the oil pump body. Then I mixed oil pump internal gears around until I found two sets where the slot for the drive peg and the teeth of the two side-by-side 6mm gears aligned. Then the tricky job of driving them both; Piet's version uses one 6mm SF and one SFC 10mm where the gears are fitted thick driving thin, so only one driven gear driving all four. I had Red machine a 4mm slot in my drive gear shafts and made my own drive pegs from key steel.

Not tried yet, but Piet swears by his - initially the 16mm pump overflowed the cam box and he had to create more drainage capacity. We're thinking mine will be OK.

 

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:o The oil Barron?s in Saudi Arabia are going to pinch that idea. It amazes me, the lengths some people go to, not saying it?s a silly idea, just the work involved.
Good on you.
 
Know what you mean - but to be honest, compared to the other shaez i'm doing to this custom build, it was a breeze. Ditto the amount of work Red did to build your spesh motor ... not to mention the Phil Todd head!

i just remember seeing Piet's thread about it and thinking it was a great idea. Noone will doubt that SF's could use a tad more security in the oil dep't, otherwise the factory wouldn't have seen fit to make a 10mm number for the SFC. I had four or five SF oil pumps lying around (everyone goes for the SFC one) and decided to have a crack. Cases were apart, one for boring to take the 880 barrels, so no biggie there.

Everything I make on the lathe or by hand (or a mix of both, like those friggin gear keys  :o) is bickies in the machining experience bank for a self-taughtie like me. Coulda bought cast wheels too, but spent countless hours machining stuff to fit strong spokey dokeys and modern front ends. Where do we draw the line, Chris???!!!  :-\
 
Line is never drawn, I am actually having a beer, looking at my head, and wondering how hard it would be to make a triple into a SOHC like the prototype......... why, no lines drawn yet ;)
 
Dellortoman said:
Why? Seems like a backward step to me.

Why? Why not? Imagine having the only road going Laverda SOHC cam triples in existence.

https://www.motorcycleclassics.com/classic-italian-motorcycles/laverda-1000-3c

https://plus.google.com/photos/115719294068838360994/album/6232550921698100113/6232552756117320642?sqid=103990760212263776534&ssid=98b8d5ea-a60f-4cda-a85e-bd63ff787ee5

http://laverda-passion.blogspot.com/2009/12/images-darchive.html

http://laverda-passion.blogspot.com/2009/12/images-darchive.html

 
Might be easier to make one starting with a couple of 750 engines, and do a Millyard to them.
 
Grant said:
Might be easier to make one starting with a couple of 750 engines, and do a Millyard to them.

Was thinking the same.  Allens' current V-twin Velocette project is fascinating!

piet
 
the SOHC triple is much more complicated to do a Millyard on than you think,

f.e. the cam chain is on the extreme right (not between left and right cylinder) hence the crank sprocket moves, the crankcases change, there is an air gap between cylcinders 1&2 and 2&3 as well, all three exhaust ports are parallel, the external corners of the head are chamfered,the spark plug threads are all on the front (the others are blank), it looks like the ignition is on the RH end of the camshaft, etc etc  will you do a 180 or a 120, I think both were tried.

I would like a very close look at that bike again, because I think the main castings must have been total "one offs" and not cut and welded, then again. maybe only the head and barrels. At the time I first saw it, it was not very old, this was in 1975, the DOHC triple was available by then, and guess what. I wanted an SOHC  !!! I imagined a loverly soft and torquey super tourer, not sure about the brakes tho!

CLEM
 
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