Alpino timing and 350 supplement

[Morizzi]

Hi all,

I've got the Alpino back together. Its not perfect but at least the rear guard looks respectable.
I've put in new clutch plates and now I'm trying to time it.

I don't have the 350 supplement that explains the counterweight fitting process but I have put it on as best I can from previous advice here with the weight down and the LH piston at TDC. I can't get the top to line up with the piston. The teeth just don't allow perfect alignment but I've got it as close as I can.

The other issue is that I can't advance the timing enough with the sensors to get it right. I'm still a few degrees retarded and there doesn't appear to be much advance when I rev it.

I'm wondering if the engine has been pulled apart before and something isn't aligned correctly or are these little out of alignment issues normal and I just need to widen the slots for the sensors.

Looking forward to lots of ribbing with hopefully a spattering of useful information included. 

Cheers

Rod

 

[HansL]

Hi Rod,

I should leave the counterweight out.
On my 500 Formula it came out by itself. I removed it from my other 500 not the have that experience again.
There was no noticable difference in vibration after the removal.

You could check the spline within the magnet of the ignition. Sometimes this gets worn out and causes problems with timing.


Hans

 

[redax5]

sorry Rod, keep forgetting to scan the document
here it is as an attachment
I'd leave it out as well, makes no difference

HTH
Red

 

[Morizzi]

Thanks Red and everyone,

Unfortunately mine does not line up with the top of the piston. It just can't happen due to the the meshing of the teeth but I've got it as close as I can. I wasn't really expecting a miracle but on the odd chance it explained how to adjust for the teeth meshing I thought it was worth a look.  :

I've taken to the ignition pick up slots with a file and now all is well with both the timing and rotor gaps.  

I've got it idling at least. I'll need to hook up the vacuum gauges as I find it hard to judge due to the 2 into 1 exhaust. The pulling a plug trick doesn't work very well on it either. It just dies instantly. The Guzzis will roll on a few revolutions or even idle on one side but not this thing. Pull a plug and it is instant death.  ??? Probably just needs a damn good thrashing to clean it out. Its got a much lighter flywheel too.

Anyway I'm close to having it rideable. Just need to remove the world's largest choke lever mechanism so I can hook up the gauges and give it a balance. I'll do that after work tonight.

I don't think it will be together for too long though. I've got a suspicion that the valve stem seals are worn. I'll wait to see how it is after a decent run. I need to hoist it up and remove the centre stand too so I can get the exhaust off of it, clean it up and possibly get it ceramic coated. All minor stuff really that can wait.

thanks for all the help.

Rod, just starting to get his head around Laverdas and the particular quirks of this one.

 

[sfcpiet]

Rod,

If you need at least 1200rpm for a steady idle, chances are one or more valves/valve seats are leaky/burnt, a common ailment on these engines.  Usually due to too close valve clearances.  Check tappets and cam base circles for signs of constant contact.

An aftermarket ignition also helps attaining a steady idle, wifey's DMC II equipped 500 idles nicely at 8-900rpm.  These things have no flywheel effect to keep them spinning....

No need to remove the choke caboodle for balancing.  The bracket has 2 holes in the top through which the hoses can be fed to the vacuum bores.  Easier to replace the blanking screws with the vacuum take-offs from the triples and connect them with a length of hose once balanced.  Makes future maintenance considerably easier.

piet