Bare Naked SFC1000

[Laverdalothar]

Regarding the repeater lamp: that does not exist that way on the 1000 SFC, as there are 2 actually, both in line with the left or right turn-signals (the arrow-lamps on the dash). So you can leave that cable off, it is just there as RGS has a different dash and RGS and SFC share the same wiring loom.

regarding the Alternator: 2 cables can be put together, the 3rd goes to the headlight switch and from there to the battery. This shall activate the 3rd phase only if headlight is on to safe the battery from over-cooking, as the SFC-battery is normally a bit smaller than the one from the Jota or 3C (which were actually the same as used in the Fiat 500...).

As you will always ride with lights on I suppose, you can safe the switch from the high voltage coming from the 3rd phase by re-wiring the 3rd phase directly to the battery. I assume you will need to make a wire though connecting from the fuse-box to the wire that goes to the headlight switch, else you will be lost in darkness I guess... haven't done that modification yet with my bike, but I assume that would be the route to go.

Maybe Piet can confirm, he has done it several times and also on his RGS I think.

Also I would consider putting a bigger wire from plus of the battery to the headlight, feeding the headlights via a relay that you switch with the original headlight cable. This gives roughly 30 - 40% more light output... (measure what Voltage you have on the battery and what comes to the headlight and the difference in % is roughly what you gain... f.e.: if Battery is 12V and headlight is 9Volt, difference is roughly 30% (based on the 9V), so you will see roughly 30% more lumen on the headlight with the bigger wire and the relay in place).

 

[Rockitdoc]

Regarding the repeater lamp: that does not exist that way on the 1000 SFC, as there are 2 actually, both in line with the left or right turn-signals (the arrow-lamps on the dash). So you can leave that cable off, it is just there as RGS has a different dash and RGS and SFC share the same wiring loom.

Thanks again, Lothar.  Here's the picture if anybody hasn't seen one before:

It was bothering me because I can only get the right arrow to light with the front right turn signal.  I thought maybe that wire was the reason things weren't working.  Now, I can search elsewhere.

BTW, how do you like the mileage?

 

[Laverdalothar]

you need to have the indicator wired and the bulbs working to make the arrow "blink" as far as I know, as if not, the circuit is not closed and the relay does not get necessary connection to ground/minus. so - check the bulbs with a multimeter if they show resistance. if its endless resistance, the bulbs are broken. else check the ground wiring connections on the frame. The frame has been re-painted, which means that potentially all ground connections are not really have connection as they should.

Oh - and yes, I LOVE the millage... but it will soon change, once the bike is running... 

have you overhauled the carbs, too?

looking at the dash, I might be wrong but it looks like if the oil-temp gauge is turned a bit clockwise. as the fairing is not yet in, maybe you want to adjust that a bit - or is that just me looking wrong at the picture?

 

[motoddrob]

Thanks again, Lothar.  Here's the picture if anybody hasn't seen one before:

It was bothering me because I can only get the right arrow to light with the front right turn signal.  I thought maybe that wire was the reason things weren't working.  Now, I can search elsewhere.

BTW, how do you like the mileage?

Got away to go to catch up with mine

 

[Rockitdoc]

you need to have the indicator wired and the bulbs working to make the arrow "blink" as far as I know, as if not, the circuit is not closed and the relay does not get necessary connection to ground/minus. so - check the bulbs with a multimeter if they show resistance. if its endless resistance, the bulbs are broken. else check the ground wiring connections on the frame. The frame has been re-painted, which means that potentially all ground connections are not really have connection as they should.

I have only found four grounds and made sure these actually connect to the (-) battery  through frame or engine by filing off all paint and using dialectric grease between connections to keep out moisture/rust: 1) battery (-) to engine case, 2) frame next to voltage regulator: one dark green from starter relay, one dark green from lights, one black/white to voltage regulator 3) frame behind coils: light green to lights and black to DMC and 4) horn button grounds through switch cluster to handlebars (mine does not, yet, as handlebar mounts are an insulator, so I will hard wire the horn button ground to the frame behind the coils with the other two wires) Still no left blinkers and no right rear blinker (all bulbs are good).  I will keep looking with my meter.

have you overhauled the carbs, too?

Carbs overhauled by Scott Potter last year.  They should be good to go.

looking at the dash, I might be wrong but it looks like if the oil-temp gauge is turned a bit clockwise. as the fairing is not yet in, maybe you want to adjust that a bit - or is that just me looking wrong at the picture?

It is crooked. I'll leave it that way to see if anyone else notices.    If they do, I'll tell them it's an Italian thing and they wouldn't understand. 

 

[Laverdalothar]

I would need to check, but I think the indicators work like this:

plus from fuse box to relay, from relay to indicator switch. From there it splits up to the indicator lamp and then to the indicator (or wise versa), while one cable goes either from the indicator lamp or from the front left indicator to the rear one. From there it goes to ground. it might be it is the other way around and the switch is the last part that simply grounds one side or the other to ground?!? if so, you could measure if there is current on the bulbs anywhere. if so, make a connection between the cable that goes "out of the indicator" and to ground (you bypass the switch that way). If it blinks, the switch might be the issue.

the relay works with a bi-metal: once you switch the indicator switch on, you close the circuit and the power goes from battery through the relay over the switch to the indicators/indicator control lamp and to ground. Or first over all the lamps then to the switch and then switched to ground. The bi-metal heats up, bents and the circuit gets cut off, which makes the bi-metal to cool down, straighten and get back in contact and process starts again until you cut the circuit off by the indicator switch. Hope I got it right...  :-[

Not sure if it makes a difference how you connect the relay. I would check if actually the relay works. If it does, you can check wire by wire, connection by connection. Sometimes it is just a corrosion on one of the connectors. Have you pulled the big plug that is located under the tank at the 3 main frame tubes? does it show corrosion? Be carefull not to brake it (I did... :-( ), they are hard to get by... I even hat corrosion between the cable and the connectors, going 1-2 cm into the insulation...