Rockitdoc
Hero member
- Location
- Fort Collins, Colorado
How does the battery tray mount on this machine?
Thanks for any help in advance.
S
Thanks for any help in advance.
S
Battery Tray Mounting on RGS1000SFC
- Thread starter Rockitdoc
- Start date
Laverdalothar
Hero member
- Location
- Germany
Hi Scott,
You will need to take the swing arm out. That sounds harder than it is, but will safe you from lot of trouble to get the nuts on the bolts.
There are 2 angled and drilled plates welded to the frame where the tray is mounted on, the lower one is on the left side, the higher one on right side. for mounting the 2 bolts through this angled bracket, the swing arm needs to go out and then you have easy access to the bolts for mounting the nuts.
HTH
You will need to take the swing arm out. That sounds harder than it is, but will safe you from lot of trouble to get the nuts on the bolts.
There are 2 angled and drilled plates welded to the frame where the tray is mounted on, the lower one is on the left side, the higher one on right side. for mounting the 2 bolts through this angled bracket, the swing arm needs to go out and then you have easy access to the bolts for mounting the nuts.
HTH
Rockitdoc
Hero member
- Location
- Fort Collins, Colorado
Thanks Lothar. I'll look for them.
BTW, you were correct, the slave cylinder for the rear brake was seized. I'll probably rebuild all three calipers, as well, to make sure they are not in a similar condition.
BTW, you were correct, the slave cylinder for the rear brake was seized. I'll probably rebuild all three calipers, as well, to make sure they are not in a similar condition.
Rockitdoc
Hero member
- Location
- Fort Collins, Colorado
Laverdalothar said:
I found them! Thanks. The description of one high and one low lead me to where it mounts. I think I could get a nut on the lower one without taking off the swingarm (years of experience working on British stuff!), but I need to take it off, anyway, to service it. I'll also inspect/replace the rear bearings while I'm at it.
Working on trying to get the clutch activating piston out of the clutch side cover. It seems to be an integral part of the sidecover, now. So far, air and heat have not worked. Any other ideas appreciated.
breganzane
Hero member
- Location
- NSW Australia
Just connect it back up to the master and pump it out. It is designed as a hydraulic system to pump the piston out after all. 
Agree that the battery tray can be removed without removing the swingarm (might require liberal use of four letter words tho'), but might as well pull it all down and check SA bearings while you're at it.
Cheers
SteveB
Agree that the battery tray can be removed without removing the swingarm (might require liberal use of four letter words tho'), but might as well pull it all down and check SA bearings while you're at it.
Cheers
SteveB
Laverdalothar
Hero member
- Location
- Germany
Hi Scott,
the hydraulic-clutch slave normally only resists to go out if the O-Ring has glued itself to the casing and the piston. PITA to get it out, I agree. The clutch master was rebuild and should work. if so, follow Steve's advice (or Piet's with the grease-gun) and apply a good portion of heat with the heat-gun first. No fluid will make it release I think, as the real issue is the O-Ring, not the piston itself. Giving it a slack with the hammer to "break" the connection as Keith suggested is a good advice, but be careful and put something soft under cover to protect it from damage.
if it leaks, try the grease-method. that should make it move. if nothing helps, you can try a puller carefully, these pistons are replacement items, available at Wolfgang or OCT. Be careful, there are two different dimensions, 30mm and 31mm. Check that before ordering a new one.
the hydraulic-clutch slave normally only resists to go out if the O-Ring has glued itself to the casing and the piston. PITA to get it out, I agree. The clutch master was rebuild and should work. if so, follow Steve's advice (or Piet's with the grease-gun) and apply a good portion of heat with the heat-gun first. No fluid will make it release I think, as the real issue is the O-Ring, not the piston itself. Giving it a slack with the hammer to "break" the connection as Keith suggested is a good advice, but be careful and put something soft under cover to protect it from damage.
if it leaks, try the grease-method. that should make it move. if nothing helps, you can try a puller carefully, these pistons are replacement items, available at Wolfgang or OCT. Be careful, there are two different dimensions, 30mm and 31mm. Check that before ordering a new one.