Brembo rear Master cylinder woes

The Brembo grease for the O rings- when assembled, the pistons should glide back and forth when pressed. Make sure the interior of the caliper is clean- with the lines connected and pucks and old seals in place,
dunk the caliper in a pail of soapy dish soap and scrub the inside caliper w a toothbrush. Examine the exposed pistons for any rust or dirt build up that can cause them to hold up in the bores.
 
The grease is for all the o-rings, including the square section piston ones. Do not fit old chromed steel pistons today, replace with the alloy coated ones as Piet mentioned. I always use a smidge of copper grease or similar on the bolts joining the caliper halves.
 
I'm going to vent...FUCK, this is a challenge. What should have been a simple master cylinder rebuild has become a journey of discovery and frustration. With the help of Forum members, the M/C was identified as a 12mm piece, thanks.
So I ordered the part and fitted it and to date, I was unable to build up pressure in the braking system even after trying every trick I know. I removed the M/C, disassembled it, and compared the new 12mm piston with the old one. Well what do you know they are both 12mm pistons (actual 12.7mm) but as can be seen in the photos they are of different lengths, why is that, did Brembo make different-length pistons? The pictures show that the working part of the piston is longer, the seals are spaced further apart, and the grooves too. It was suggested the M/C could be from a Laverda 500, do they also utilize a different piston length/kit?
If anyone has come across this, any help will be appreciated.
 

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I had similar on my Pantah with homemade rear sets, I gave up after 3 days of also using all the tricks, back bleeding etc. Took it to the pros and they found an extra washer that didn't allow that tiny port to be exposed. Charged me $400 and forgot to tighten the cliper mount bolts. It fell off while riding home and thankfully didn't jam in the wheel.
 
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