Cam blocks with no oil hole on the journal

Jugs_S

Senior member
Location
Sydney
I'm working on a head from a early Jota #1000-4062 at the moment, which has been previously done up but the bike sat for many years. By all looks it was never run after the rebuild. New cams and the journals look like they have never spun. The blocks look old style with the ferrell set in the head and the cam block to locate them but the bearing surface in the blocks also looks like it has not been run.

I noticed the cam blocks do not have a oil hole in the journal. (see pix) has anyone seen this before ?

Jugs_S

 

Attachments

  • Cam block.jpg
    Cam block.jpg
    30.1 KB · Views: 52
Never come across that before(never noticed?)....

I'd rather not use them anyway, they will surely crumble, as they always did.  The 8mm stud hole seems to be a bit deformed already.

The later squared blocks are far superior, some may require a little re-working at the bottom to make them fit an early type head.

piet
 
Will,
Never seen that before.
Is it only the one or are they all like that.?

Can supply you with billet blocks as you know.
Just tell me what offset you want, regain some shim clearance.

Tchau
Red
 
They are all like that including the split ones. They look like New old stock Laverda cam blocks the holes measurer to 22.08mm. The head it is slightly different from Vinces Head C3, the oil retaining dams don't have a cut out and the depth of the cut out in the dam at the center cam block is larger in the later model. 23092010 020 in the early engine.

I'll put more in a separate post

Jugs_S
 

Attachments

  • 23092010 020small.jpg
    23092010 020small.jpg
    81 KB · Views: 17
  • oil bund center cam block.JPG
    oil bund center cam block.JPG
    51.7 KB · Views: 13
The very early triples did not have the oil bleed hole in the cam bearings,it was recomeded (at the time) that you drilled a 1.5mm hole yourself.These bearings (without holes) must have been very early old stock, As Piet says there are very good reasons not to use them due to the crumbling/crushing that takes place,Tyhe top face where the nut and washer go usually show signs of getting "out of square" with the stud accis and also of the washer sinking into its own recess from normal torque, which should not happen.I suppose you could drill the holes yourself and see how far you get before they start to deteriorate.

I have had a set of machined from solid bearings in the past, but I could not bring myself to use them, since the "C" rings (which control end float on 180's) were not sticking proud from the bearings, and the cams would have surely finished off uncontrolled, they were allso very sharp and nasty in my hands and the halves of the centre pair did not match each other, they went back and I was critsiced for being fussy, "there all like that mate and they are OK" It was a few years ago, and they may be getting made differently or by someone else now, do you make them yourself Red? or are they outsourced (not wanting to ask you to eveal the source) but is the same thing available from other dealers?
CLEM
 
Clem,
I have them made by our mate who runs a CNC machine shop
Wolfgang is going to stock them as well, already sent him a sample and he is keen
Keith has his own version of the blocks
I'll probably send a couple of sets to Scott Potter as well

Red
 
Clemtog

Thanks for the info. Look like I'll be talking to the owner about a new set of cam blocks. Not to sorry to see them go as I did the check total wear limit between them and the band new set of Axtel cams and they are pretty much past max with out running. Red I'll call later

Thanks

Jugs_S
 
Clem,
Have you forgotten the new blocks I recently acquired...very nice and machined from billet I think...now with Keith in Glasgow for sorting with my new head and cams. They looked like works of art to me...hope there are no problems.
Nick7
 
Back
Top