Camshaft Removal Tool

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Bearsaregood

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The basket case 750SF2 is finally getting some attention. The parts box contained two cylinder heads. The previous owner assured me that the newer looking one, loosely fitted to the barrels, is a 650 cylinder head with spacers machined from billet mild steel, and attached to the inlets to allow standard 750 airbox hose connections. The second head, covered in 25 years of dust and oil, is locked solid, and currently bathing in kero in an attempt to salvage it. I have found it impossible to get any info on the 650, so I have a couple of questions before I take the two heads down:
Are parts for the two heads interchangeable. without dismantling for proper measurement, they appear to be very similar.
The Green book says that camshaft removal is possible without Laverda special tool No. @#*&!%$&. If anyone has a photo of the tool or has removed camshafts without using same, I would appreciate any advice given.
Help!
 
Haven't seen a 650 head from the chamber side, but the inlet set-up is the same as the early 750, but different to the SF1/2/3 models.  The 650 used 29mm square slide VHB carbs, as did the earliest 750GTs (30mm for the later GT andS/SF models), SF1/2/3 have 36mm PHB with the according inlet stubs and porting/valves.  If you intend building the bike as a SF2, you should use the correct head, converting the early head is possible but quite an undertaking, involving a considerable amount of specialist machining.

Removing cams without the factory tools is possible but not advisable, unless you prefer butchering the cams.  The tool is basically a threaded bar inserted in the RH cam that pulls the cam outwards into a tube resting on the side of the head, after the cams have been split at the sprocket.  The LH cam can then be tapped out to the right with an alloy bar inserted from the left.  Heating the head with a hot air gun eases removal of the cams.

piet
 
Thanks Piet, I would prefer to use the right tool for the job. I'm hoping that the 750 head is in good nick under all of the crap covering it, and would like to restore it. Is the cam temoval tool generally available?
 
Bearsaregood said:
Thanks Piet, I would prefer to use the right tool for the job. I'm hoping that the 750 head is in good nick under all of the crap covering it, and would like to restore it. Is the cam temoval tool generally available?
Click to expand...

Not really, probably all snapped up by now.  Perhaps somebody close to you could loan it.  Not too difficult to build if machining and welding skills are available.  You will also need the puller for the rocker spindles, very similar in operation.

A slide hammer would also do the trick... not quite as easy, needs a little more care.

I can post a pic of both tools later tomorrow, off to bed now... :D

piet
 
Hi Piet,

A few photos of the tools would be really useful.

An early S head I measured only has 28mm inlet ports, otherwise it seems the same as a 1974 GT head with 32mm porting.

I found that the cheap PWK 30mm flat slide carbs as modified for the Norton Commando for 2 inch stud spacing slip on OK, but I haven't made up heat spacers yet.
 
Here you go...
 

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Even though these Laverda tools are now completely unavailable, a Yamaha horizontally-split crankcase crankshaft puller tool looks like it would do the same job perfectly. If you've never seen one, just Google "Yamaha crankshaft puller" and you'll see the real thing, at least two reputable aftermarket copies, and quite a few home made bodge tools. You might even find you have a mate who works on Yamaha trail bikes who even has one (I do).

Ken
 
mcnicol said:
Even though these Laverda tools are now completely unavailable, a Yamaha horizontally-split crankcase crankshaft puller tool looks like it would do the same job perfectly. If you've never seen one, just Google "Yamaha crankshaft puller" and you'll see the real thing, at least two reputable aftermarket copies, and quite a few home made bodge tools. You might even find you have a mate who works on Yamaha trail bikes who even has one (I do).

Ken
Click to expand...

Hey Ken,

are you sure you don't mean vertically split? I can't see the need for a puller for a motor with horizontally split cases such as a Laverda (yes I understand the application here is for the camshaft and not for the crankcases).

bazzee
 
A piece if pipe larger in dia. than the bearing, large washer/plate and a long bolt would do the same job. as for the rocker pins last time I removed them I used a socket, washer and bolt to do it.
Never needed to pull the cams with puller, after heating the head in a oven the cams fell out IIRC.
 
You must of course undo the bolts holding the 2 cam halves.
Then head in the oven and hit the cam bearings with the end of a long screwdriver, tapping regularly all around the bearing so as not to get it going a bit sideways. They always come out easily.
650 heads had the same inlet tracts as early 750s, ie with inlets anywhere between 27 and 30 mm. Combustion chamber is however different since adapted to the 75 mm bore.
Paul
 
Thanks Denis. The amount of crap that this thing is covered in was making the thread sizes a bit difficult to interpret. As Paul so succinctly put it, "you have nice tool"

Chris
 
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