Carburettor balancers

cape

Hero member
Location
Finland
I just balanced the carburettors with ?Carbtune? (owned by a friend of mine). Nice little device. The price for Carbtune Pro is ?57 British pounds. After balancing the carbs I tested a self-made version, price 5 ?. Guess which one was more accurate? :D

Carbtune
carbtune.jpg


Self-made
kaasari-balanssi.jpg
 
Without a super accurate one to compare the two how would you know which one was more accurate?

Not that I don't beleive you, the much lighter than mercury liquid should show up the differences much easier to see. BTW what is the blue liquid in the tubes, and did you use restrictors, are they the black things on the end of the tubes?


 
G'day cape

I'm guessing the blue stuff is just coloured water. The plumbing on your home-made version is interesting. All 3 tubes are connected together at the bottom, so when it's connected to 3 carbs there's no opening to atmosphere. I've not seen that before, but it's probably a good idea. Atmospheric pressure is generally used as a reference, but with a water manometer the vacuum generated by the carbs would probably suck the water right out of an open-vented system. Open-vented systems generally use mercury.

The way you have it set up, you're measuring the difference in pressure (vacuum) between each intake throat. You don't know how much vacuum you're getting, but I assume you can see any out of balance between carbs. Interesting idea. I'd like to see a video of it working.

Drikko, a manometer (U-tube) doesn't need calibration. It's self-calibrating and can't read incorrectly. Or to put it another way, if you wanted to calibrate it what would you adjust?

Cheers,
Cam
 
Hi Cam,
              The sealed tubes with water or oil is well documented on the interweb, and there's any number of cideos on you tube showing how it works. The vertical tubes need to be pretty long if you are using water, less long if you are using oil. Being lighter they show up differences easier to see than mercury as the differences are larger.

Start here:-

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RxkwZ-NDsVs[/youtube]

 
drikko said:
Hi Cam,
              The sealed tubes with water or oil is well documented on the interweb, and there's any number of cideos on you tube showing how it works. The vertical tubes need to be pretty long if you are using water, less long if you are using oil. Being lighter they show up differences easier to see than mercury as the differences are larger.

What determines the length required for the tubes? Mercury is rather dense, but water is denser than oil so shouldn't oil-filled tubes be longer? Or is viscosity involved as well???

Confused (but admittedly unresearched),

bazzee
 
I seem to remember that a barometer using water would need to be 30feet long,for some reason that has stuck in my head,something to do with the specific density of the fluids,a Mercury one is a yard long,thats in imperial school days,.BTW I have finally gotten rid of the bubbles in my Mercury unit,It was leaking between the clear tubes and the reservoir,a used a couple of coats of waterproofing membrane,very thick full depth drying paint.Spending $150 to replace it would have pissed me off no end
 
Vince

Well, yeah, atmospheric pressure is 760mm of mercury, that means the pressure of the atmosphere supports a column of mercury (supported in a tube!) 760mm high. For water, atmospheric pressure is 10.3 meters. 13.55 times higher.
But this only applies to closed tube manometers, where the pressure of the atmosphere is pushing the column up, and not also pushing down on the top of the column of liquid. For a pressure manometer like we're discussing all you need are 2 or more essentially rigid tubes with the same volume of fluid in each tube, adjusted so the top of the liquid level is the same in all 3 tubes. When the liquid in the tube is subjected to pressures above or below atmospheric pressure, the level of the liquid will move up or down.
Mercury has the advantage that it's nice and dense and damps out fluctuations as the inlet port pressure fluctuates, providing a fairly steady reading. Water tends to bounce around a lot because it's a lot less dense and not very viscous. Adding something (like methyl cellulose) that makes water more viscous helps to stabilize it, but then it tends to start to get full of smelly bacteria. Water also evaporates too quickly.
Manometers these days tend to use a light oil because it's nice and viscous and doesn't evaporate (and doesn't produce the toxic fumes you get from mercury). But this technology is certainly not rocket science. Home made manometers can have very high precision, allowing Laverda owners to set their carburetors up to very close to the same vacuum. But they're not accurate. You can't read off from the gauge and say just exactly what the manifold pressure is. You need a very high quality instrument to calibrate them. So what, nobody cares what the pressure is exactly, as long as all the carburetors are the same.

Ken
 
On my homemade version the board is about 1,2 meter high. I used 8 meters of 5 mm (inner dia) tube cut in tree pieces and then joined at the bottom with fuel line t-piece. The blue stuff on the tubes is fuel conservation liquid, but I'm going to change that to automatic transmission oil. I think the viscosity is more appropriate. At the end on each tube there is a ?mouthpiece? used in mig-welding machines (see the pic). It narrows the tube to 1 mm and thus decreases vibration on the liquid.

The apparatus is really simple in structure, easy to make, doesn't cost much and is very accurate.

mig-suutin.jpg
 
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