Charging issues

R

rogerd

Full member
Any electrical gurus out there. I have a charging issue with a 77 3CL. I have fitted a Redax alternator conversion which does not seem to cope with the lights or indicators being switched on.  The battery is showing approx 12.6 volts at rest. On running the engine up to about 3K revs I get 13.5 volts but if I switch on the headlights or indicators the battery drops to 12.5 volts which will drain it given time.

The rectifier is a new electrex unit - the original one supplied with the conversion failed fairly rapidly - is this a clue as to a possible problem?

My electrics are relatively basic when it comes to alternators. Does any one with more in depth experience have any ideas on possible causes and how to check them out??
 
Ok, my two pennorth not being particularly electrically minded. Is the battery good? just because it shows a charge at rest doesn't mean it's fit for purpose. You say you have fitted a new rectifier, should that be a regulator/rectifier? I ask because I fitted a single phase (don't ask!) reg/rec from Electrex after fitting my Witt. It didn't seem up to the job of charging when there was a heavy load reqd. I already had a japanese shindengen S530 unit so fitted that=end of problem, I'm sure someone more qualified than me (not difficult) will be along soon to confirm or deny this. I would definitely start with the battery though. Good luck..Stuart
 
Roger, which Electrex unit did you fit? Can you post a link to it?


Looking at their website it would need to be the RR10 which is listed for the RGS, not the RR60 which is listed for the Jota. If you used the latter then you're only getting 1/3 of the alternator output. The 3 alternator wires need to be connected to the 3 yellow wires, doesn't matter which way around.
 
https://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
This is very thorough and seems complicated but if you take it step by step you should be ok and find out what is going on.
 
The regulator rectifier is an RR14 a three phase version with the correct connector for the redax system.

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/RR14.html

Thanks tippie the flow chart looks very helpful. I'll work through it.
 
Tippie said:
https://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
This is very thorough and seems complicated but if you take it step by step you should be ok and find out what is going on.
Click to expand...

Hey, I like that a lot. Thanks
 
Many thanks Tippie the flow chart is a very useful resource. Having been able to follow it I located a break in the soldered join between one of the coils at the stator and it yellow wire to the RR. Once re-soldered bingo fully functioning.

It goes to show that the "Gen" warning light when functioning has its uses, otherwise I would have been unaware till possibly stranded with a flat battery. As when I installed the alternator/RR it seemed to test OK producing 13.6 -14.3 volts (without the lights on).
 
rogerd said:
Many thanks Tippie the flow chart is a very useful resource. Having been able to follow it I located a break in the soldered joint between one of the coils at the stator and it yellow wire to the RR. Once re-soldered bingo fully functioning.

It goes to show that the "Gen" warning light when functioning has its uses, otherwise I would have been unaware till possibly stranded with a flat battery. As when I installed the alternator/RR it seemed to test OK producing 13.6 -14.3 volts (without the lights on).
Click to expand...

Hence why they use crimp joints these days as the solder causes brittleness oh and also can cause corrosion due to the flux.
Good to hear you sorted your charging wows though.  :D
 
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