Citric acid de-rust
- Thread starter Tippie
- Start date
Laverda SF
Hero member
This is what I did de-rusting and de-scaling crap from my 70 750 SF0 Tank:
1_ Drain Gasoline and let dry - Helps using and Air Compressor to speed things up.
2_ Wash out with a Strong Detergent and Javex, flush with distilled Water and let dry.
3_ Put about 4 cups or a lb of various sized ball bearings, nuts, small bolts, coins and various sized shot gun pellets in the tank and rolled around for a an hour or 2 - Empty tank and blow out dust and scale with air compressor.
4_ Rinse with Vinegar and flush with distilled Water. If it's necessary to use a welder to repair the tank do it at this time.
5_ Fill tank with a mix of Muriatic acid and distilled water and let set for say 2 to 6 hours pending the amount of rust,
and drain. You may have to repeat this process till it's meets your satisfaction. Can't remember the ratio, perhaps 20 (Distilled water): 1 (Muriatic Acid). Check ratio Online. Just remember never to pour water into acid ;o)
6_ Drain tank and Normalized the tank with Baking Soda and Distilled water then flush and dry tank.
NOTE: Always inspect tank for LEAKS - Especially the Bottom and Seams. Bottom cracks and weak spots are simple to fix by expanding the weak area or crack (1/8" drilled on ends of cracks) and using 24 hour Metal Epoxy. Seam cracks can be sealed using a Zinc Chromate Epoxy Undercoat or Primer sloshed around in the tank.
The Zinc Chromate Epoxy Primer is probably easier to use as it's already thinned and coats the inside of the tank easier. Use about 1/2 a Cup (Pending size of tank). Do not be too concerned about draining excess out but ensure the bottom and seams are well coated and let setup with the tank placed as if it were on the bike. Let the Epoxy liner cure for a least 3 days before using tank.
RM and BSAF make great Epoxy Undercoats and Primers.
NOTE: If your tank survives the Muratic treatment with out a leak you may not require the Zinc Chromate Epoxy treatment: however, I recommend it.
You do not want a tank leak as it has the tendency to drip on the battery and will flame your ass ;o)
PS: Never use them quick step Motorcycle Tank Liners advertised or you will end up with a mess.
1_ Drain Gasoline and let dry - Helps using and Air Compressor to speed things up.
2_ Wash out with a Strong Detergent and Javex, flush with distilled Water and let dry.
3_ Put about 4 cups or a lb of various sized ball bearings, nuts, small bolts, coins and various sized shot gun pellets in the tank and rolled around for a an hour or 2 - Empty tank and blow out dust and scale with air compressor.
4_ Rinse with Vinegar and flush with distilled Water. If it's necessary to use a welder to repair the tank do it at this time.
5_ Fill tank with a mix of Muriatic acid and distilled water and let set for say 2 to 6 hours pending the amount of rust,
and drain. You may have to repeat this process till it's meets your satisfaction. Can't remember the ratio, perhaps 20 (Distilled water): 1 (Muriatic Acid). Check ratio Online. Just remember never to pour water into acid ;o)
6_ Drain tank and Normalized the tank with Baking Soda and Distilled water then flush and dry tank.
NOTE: Always inspect tank for LEAKS - Especially the Bottom and Seams. Bottom cracks and weak spots are simple to fix by expanding the weak area or crack (1/8" drilled on ends of cracks) and using 24 hour Metal Epoxy. Seam cracks can be sealed using a Zinc Chromate Epoxy Undercoat or Primer sloshed around in the tank.
The Zinc Chromate Epoxy Primer is probably easier to use as it's already thinned and coats the inside of the tank easier. Use about 1/2 a Cup (Pending size of tank). Do not be too concerned about draining excess out but ensure the bottom and seams are well coated and let setup with the tank placed as if it were on the bike. Let the Epoxy liner cure for a least 3 days before using tank.
RM and BSAF make great Epoxy Undercoats and Primers.
NOTE: If your tank survives the Muratic treatment with out a leak you may not require the Zinc Chromate Epoxy treatment: however, I recommend it.
You do not want a tank leak as it has the tendency to drip on the battery and will flame your ass ;o)
PS: Never use them quick step Motorcycle Tank Liners advertised or you will end up with a mess.
Lee87H
Hero member
- Location
- Upstate New York USA
Thanks Ron, that was one of your most informative and coherent replies ever.
Lee87H
Hero member
- Location
- Upstate New York USA
Oh I know all about it ,nasty stuff, I wasn't going to follow his instructions, I just thought it was a normal response from Ron.laverdas said:
Laverda SF
Hero member
A Putty Tat is about to lean a lesson ;o)
Muriatic Acid concentrate solutions are gov't controlled in respect to Industrial Vs Private use. Follow instructions on the label. You can buy weak Muriatic Solutions at your local Hardware store.
I've used Muriatic Acid (HCl: Hydrochloric acid) for cement, plumbing and Motorcycle Tank fix's for years without heath consequences because I read the Label and learned how to use it.
Just remember NEVER add water to Acid.
This de-rusting method will not prevent you from denting a Motorcycle Tank. To me a dent or two on a motorcycle tank adds character ;o)
Amazing the amount of viewers we are getting on this thread !