L
laverlesmains
Guest
going back to a comment about the cush drive. it looks like my sprocket is riveted to the housing? if so, how does one change the cush rubbers.
thx. tim
thx. tim
Tim,
Remove the clutch drum, with an angle grinder or something similar (Dremel, if you've got the time
), grind off the cross-punched ends of the rivets till they are flush with the steel cover. Carefully center-punch them and drill a 4mm hole down the middle, 15-20mm deep, but no more(!), preferably on a pillar drill to keep things squared. If you don't have a pillar drill, start off with 3mm and check to see if you're centered. If it checks out ok, open up to 4mm. Remove the steel cover and drill off the protruding bit with a 6mm drill till the end of the rivet is flush with the alloy. With a slender punch, push out the rivets carefully. Forcefully whacking them out may crack the posts on which the cush drive rubbers are located. Drilling out the rivets takes a little of the tension they exert in the holes, reducing the danger of cracking the alloy.
Open up the holes in the steel cover to 6.5mm/1/4" and tap M6 threads into the rivet holes of the drum. Need a keen tap for this, barely the minimum of metal required for a sound thread in there. Clean it all up, replace the cush drive rubbers and button it up with 8 off M6x20 hex screws. Do NOT use washers of any sort or use regular socket head screws, not enough space behind the cover! A drop of Loctite on the clean threads is enough to keep the screws in place.
If the rivet holes are damaged in any way or the M6 thread seems insufficiently strong, M7 threads and screws can be used, or any imperial thread that happens to fit the bill... not particularly picky. Just make sure the screw heads do not protrude more than 3-4mm above the surface of the steel cover or they will knock on the ribs on the inside of the cover.
HTH,
piet
Remove the clutch drum, with an angle grinder or something similar (Dremel, if you've got the time
), grind off the cross-punched ends of the rivets till they are flush with the steel cover. Carefully center-punch them and drill a 4mm hole down the middle, 15-20mm deep, but no more(!), preferably on a pillar drill to keep things squared. If you don't have a pillar drill, start off with 3mm and check to see if you're centered. If it checks out ok, open up to 4mm. Remove the steel cover and drill off the protruding bit with a 6mm drill till the end of the rivet is flush with the alloy. With a slender punch, push out the rivets carefully. Forcefully whacking them out may crack the posts on which the cush drive rubbers are located. Drilling out the rivets takes a little of the tension they exert in the holes, reducing the danger of cracking the alloy. Open up the holes in the steel cover to 6.5mm/1/4" and tap M6 threads into the rivet holes of the drum. Need a keen tap for this, barely the minimum of metal required for a sound thread in there. Clean it all up, replace the cush drive rubbers and button it up with 8 off M6x20 hex screws. Do NOT use washers of any sort or use regular socket head screws, not enough space behind the cover! A drop of Loctite on the clean threads is enough to keep the screws in place.
If the rivet holes are damaged in any way or the M6 thread seems insufficiently strong, M7 threads and screws can be used, or any imperial thread that happens to fit the bill... not particularly picky. Just make sure the screw heads do not protrude more than 3-4mm above the surface of the steel cover or they will knock on the ribs on the inside of the cover.
HTH,
piet
L
laverlesmains
Guest
Piet
Thanks for the detailed instructions.
Cheers, Tim
Thanks for the detailed instructions.
Cheers, Tim