Clutch rebuild in progress

young Ed is a pretty large strapping type lad so don't think he is a woolly woofter

Ed, Max heading to PO this afternoon, do you want a set of springs sent down ?
let us know

Red
 
BTW while you were bstardising that 750 for the clutch I checked the springs that came out and they did feel light compared to mine.

Whos is that blue 750, love that colour. What is it?
 
Actually Craig McLeod's bike, original paint, lovely colour.  Sorry I didn't get to meet you in person Ed, must have just about bumped into you. 

How did you go with the right hand gear change lever?

Cheers

Marty
 
hi Ed

Dont know if this will help you now... A bit late... I also had a struggle with the washers some time ago... Previous owner had them all on the outside of the clutch basket...

Anyway here is a picture that helped me.  ;)
 

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i think that Andy's heavy duty springs are 3 of the std springs (50 120 006) and 3 of the F500 springs (50 120 089) - was probably me who put him onto that. I used to have the SFC springs(50 120 019) made that enabled 6 to be used - a much better option to my mind. I use/used these springs on all my Saxon/Motodds and my racing twins and triples. i always recommended the "easy pull" clutch lever conversion. One journalist described my clutch as "able to be pulled in with the fingernail of my little finger"!! With drilling the clutch for oil flow through it I can honestly say i never saw any of my clutches again and never had any slip. If there is any interest - I can still have these springs made again (in Uk - not china or India) - Regards - Phil
 
As my brother always said on women that were touchy: "she has a big issue and needs some penis-cilin, applied intravaginal".

Not sure though that helps to much on tenovaginitis...  ???

:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
 
redax5 said:
fast_eddie said:
I had a good pull on a few levers at the BSFOS and they were nothing like mine :-)
I can see from laverda paradise there are two types of springs. 38 and 27kps.

:o
Click to expand...

saw you having a good old pull at the BSFOS  :D

I didn't know that there were two types of clutch springs available, that is interesting
I need the 38's if that is the case
Click to expand...
I can report that with 3 of the stiffer and 3 of the 'standard' springs fitted on my girlie 120 the clutch pull is still reasonably easy, no unintentional slip encountered.
 
Well it wasnt the springs. There was no discernible difference between the ones red sent me and the ones I had. I was pretty convinced that was the answer. However I spent a bit of time carefully putting it all back together, including the extended arm. It all seems very usable now, in fact I would describe it as a very easy pull.

The only thing I noted was one of the rods was 1-2mm short, also one of the ball bearings was pretty out of shape. These were replaced.

Annoyingly its still crunching into 1st from neutral. Not as bad as it was and I have not had chance to run the plates in yet but I will do so at the weekend. I understand they have a paper covering when the come out of the factory that rubs off??? They are kevlar plates from Red.

Anyway the good news is the bike is back on the road!

A few cosmetics is next up, possibly a paint colour change to that nice blue of the 750 I saw at BSFOS.




 

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Good news,the idle has to be a touch below 1200 to stop mine crunching into 1st,plus minimum freeplay at the bar lever.As usual with Laverdas it takes some time to find the optmum adjustment.
 
Well ten weeks later I am pleased to say this project is complete.

The bike is idling nicely. The new float valve sorted it. I also put the correct plugs in (8s, not 7s)

And the best news is that the new clutch plates are working well and no KRUNCH into first.

Next up is the rear brake, the caliper and cylinder need urgent attention.




 
Re the rear brake,there is a really tiny port in the master cylinder that tends to get blocked with crap.There are posts with pics floating about on here,another good tip is it helps to have the bleed nipples at the top so some pull the calliper off the bike and pack the pads out to stop them coming out to far when bleeding.There are lots of posts about sorting the rear brakes,they can be problematic to get strong.Its probably a good idea to put 500ks on the bike and then pull the oil strainer out of the case when you do an oil change,the carbon clutch plates tend to shed a bit,one of the locals had a bit in the strainer after being used a bit.Its a pain as the exhaust needs to come off but its better than having it starve for oil.Good time to replace the copper exhaust sealing washers into the head.
 
Thanks Vince. 500km oil change is scheduled in. Red warned me about that.

Will take a look at the rear brake shortly.

To be honest, dont really use it that much anyway. In fact hardly at all.

Been driving without it perfectly happily.

CHeers
Ed
 
Hey Ed,

The first time you over cook it inot a left hander, and you want some rear brake to haul it back into your lane before being run over by a truck, you'll be thinking "Damn, wish I had sorted out that rear brake........."

Marty
 
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