Correct pick-up polarity for BTZ?

MotoJouni

Hero member
Location
Finland
Hello,

I'm working on my SFC 1000. I'm going to make a new separate ignition harness that suits for BTZ and as a new feature for Ignitech also. The reason for this is that the original harness is sometimes still cutting the ignition off when getting wet even half of the wires and connectors are replaced and everything other checked, other connectors cleaned and tightened etc. Only possible next step with the original harness would be to take the whole harness of the bike and open it which I'm not going to do now. The problem is gone everytime before I have a voltmeter to locate it.

I turned the engine using the starter motor while there was an oscilloscope wired to one pick-up at time, BTZ connectors off and no gasoline. The pick-up wires are replaced some years ago with black silicone cable, so I can't have a clue which one has a black mark. All of them are in a non-standard water proof connector block in a row 1+, 1-, 2+, 2-, 3+, 3-. The number means cylinder numbering and the polarity means the pick-up gives positive voltage swing when the lobe is going closer to pick-up and negative when going away from pick-up.

Which one of the pins on the BTZ unit is positive and which one is negative? On the BTZ connector the other row there are pin1 that is empty, pin2 (on the center) and pin3 (on side)are for pick-ups. Those were connected that the plus were on the pin3 (on side) and the minus was in the pin2 (center). If this is correct, the Ignitech adapter wiring (from Ignitech) gives negative polarity for TCIP4 inputs, but it can be inverted on the software.

The advance have been correct and the marks almost perfectly inline when idling. When revving the advance have never reached the mark where it should be according to the service manual, far too less advance. I don't know have the pick-ups been in correct or reversed polarity.

I know I can try both polarities, but I'm not shure does it still indicate clearly for the correct polarity.
 
With ignition switched on, polarity can be checked by passing a screwdriver blade over the magnetic pick-up poles.  With the stock ignition, you should have a spark when the screwdriver is pulled away from the pick-up.

Do not rely on the markings on the ignition base plate, they move when you try to "adjust" the ignition timing.  Bring your crank to 32? BTC on the LH cylinder and make a mark on the clutch cover corresponding to the mark on the rotor and strobe/adjust to that.  Idle timing isn't vital, you need to assure full advance is correct.  Check all 3 cylinders are advancing correctly.  Rotor/pick-up gap influences advance characteristics while system is on advance curve, should even out at full advance though.  Idle timing can be anywhere between 5-10? BTC.

piet
 
^The idea is that this harness work with both systems. It has BTZ-connectors that fit BTZ units and in which it is able to connect Ignitech's BTZ to TCIP4 adapter cable. I also add two connectors, the first is for MAP+TPS sensors and the second is for gear shift light. Both systems are in bike and changing between them needs only changing the connectors under the seat.
The pick-up polarity needs to be correct for BTZ first and then for TCIP4. The first one is ruled by new harness and the second is ruled by adapter cable and program.
 
sfcpiet said:
With ignition switched on, polarity can be checked by passing a screwdriver blade over the magnetic pick-up poles.  With the stock ignition, you should have a spark when the screwdriver is pulled away from the pick-up.
I think this is the correct way to shurely check the polarity. I'll try this one. Thanks
 
sfcpiet said:
With ignition switched on, polarity can be checked by passing a screwdriver blade over the magnetic pick-up poles.  With the stock ignition, you should have a spark when the screwdriver is pulled away from the pick-up.

I did this and it worked. On my bike, the wires with white mark are positive, and wires with black mark are negative. On the schematic diagram, the black marked cables from pick-ups should be also negatives. Pin number 2 on the BTZ-connector (on the center row) is the negative with black marks and the pin 3 (on the side) with white marks is positive.

I assembled the Ignitech on bike today and is working very well. It doesn't have yet TPS and MAP-sensors but I start to adjust the system first without them.
 
Back
Top