crankcase sealant - recommendations?

I am the culprit who suggested Three Bond 1211 to Chris, I just used it on the engine cases of my present 82 1200 engine build. Thinking back, probably recommended to me by SteveB  years ago, as I have used it in various previous Laverda engine builds.

someone mentioned "The Right Stuff", which is a Permatex product. I would NOT use that for Laverda crankcases, too thick, although the Permatex I Minute Gasket Maker, grey, seems finer, but I think either would be overkill for the finely machined faces of Laverda engine cases.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex--the-right-stuff--gasket-maker-detail

Despite Harry Lime's statement to the effect that certain British engines were "designed" to leak, I will be using the Permatex black The Right Stuff on the oil pan gasket of my Triumph car engine assembly, as well as the timing chest, both of which are such crappy fitment and wavy gaps they pretty much always leak, but I think the black thick gooey stuff from Permatex has the best shot at actually sealing them. On another topic, I finally got the last of the machined Triumph car engine parts back from the machinist yesterday, I need to run out and pick up some of the gasket sealer.....

Paul LeClair
 
Dellortoman said:
Paul:  For your Triumph, I recomment a bucket of silicone and a trowel.
Click to expand...

When I'm more mature, I won't get a Triumph but a Norton.

I once accepted to rebuild a 750 engine. Turned out that it had seized badly. The head had been skimmed to such a point that two base gaskets had later been used on a rebuild with plenty of gasket goo. Blocked all the oilways, seized a piston and dropped a big end. Pity, the pistons were new.
Paul
 
....hmm....so what's the recommendation then please chaps? Blue hylomar?
Most of the products being talked about are for metal to metal.

Just a gasket alone I'm fairly sure won't do the trick.
I suppose I could phone SRM and ask what they used that had a good consistency and I can't see much or maybe none in the bit of engine I've exposed.
 
Ah....http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.htm?countryCode=uke&BU=industrial&parentredDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=1000000IX5922

Loctite 5922 - Improves the sealing performance of old and new pre-cut gaskets     

Your benefits

    Improves the sealing performance of old and new pre-cut gaskets (paper, cork, felt, etc.)
    Slow curing paste
    Sets to a permanently flexible, non-hardening film
    Suitable for parts which require disassembly
 
olly said:
....hmm....so what's the recommendation then please chaps? Blue hylomar?
Most of the products being talked about are for metal to metal.
Click to expand...

If you take the time to look at the topic headline, you may notice exactly that was the original question. ::)

But, for what it's worth, Loctite 518 or 573 can also be used on gasketed joints without creating problems upon future disassembly.  Both compounds break up easily when a bit of force is applied.  And by force, I do not mean a 5-pound lump hammer...

If the gasket alone won't do the trick, the sealing surfaces must be dirty/damaged/distorted in some way.  First step would be to get the mating surfaces as clean, straight and flat as possible.  Quite surprising how many gaskets I find that were simply placed over several decades' worth of crud, then the owners would generally smear the outsides of the joint with silicone sealant to stop the drips.  Hell, these engines aren't a fucking bathroom!

piet
 

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A leak free bathroom involves a lot of high tech knowhow Piet. A bodged bathroom can cost a hell of a lot more than a bodged Laverda engine.
Paul
 
The 518 is a bit more idiot proof if they use too much, since it does not set outside the joint in the same way threebond does.  But correct me if I'm wrong, the original crankcase sealant was a white silicon-type product that certainly did set outside the joints.
But I think Paul summed up the situation perfectly in reply 21.

Cheers
SteveB
 
Didn't they call it "Gorilla snot" ?!! As a yoof permanently rebuilding my exploded XL125 I made the mistake of using a hard setting green gasket  liquid once....and had many hours on the next rebuild trying to get the stuff off to reflect on my stupidity. An obvious thing, but take great care never to damage sealing surfaces, don't just bang the cases etc down anywhere, nor scrape with a screwdriver etc other than with extreme care.
 
breganzane said:
The 518 is a bit more idiot proof if they use too much, since it does not set outside the joint in the same way threebond does.  But correct me if I'm wrong, the original crankcase sealant was a white silicon-type product that certainly did set outside the joints.
But I think Paul summed up the situation perfectly in reply 21.

Cheers
SteveB
Click to expand...

For some strange reason, known only to the italians(?), the product was branded "Mothers".  There should still be a box of the stuff at OCT, reckon it's well past its use-by date now.  We're all too chicken to use it!!  Settles quite hard, not sure if it is silicone based.  A bastard to remove though, virgin cases still popping up now and then!

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
Settles quite hard, not sure if it is silicone based.  A bastard to remove though, virgin cases still popping up now and then!
piet
Click to expand...

have that right, come across a few virgin cases, takes time to clean the mating surface of the original gasket sealant
is white in colour, do not believe it is silicon based same as Piet, does not have the same consistency one relates to silicone
 
My limited experience of cracking a few virgins is that the original is harder than new threebond, however I wonder what consistency Threebond will have in 30 years after about a million heat cycles, UV, etc? 
What is clear is that the original product DOES set hard outside the joint, thus products which do - such as Threebond 1211 - should not be criticised for that fact since it's not unlike what the factory used.  Once again, the critical thing is how much you use (ie fuck-all).
A tangential advantage - the slight white seam produced by threebond more closely resembles the original factory finish, and thus will be a hit with the recently all-pervasive pipe and slippers rivet counting brigade.  I know it gives me happy-feng-shui moment when I'm admiring it alongside the deep nyloc nuts with the yellow rings. ;)
 
Just use Araldite and pray we are all long gone before the cases need opening again...  :-\

I jest, but I know a guy who used Araldite to repair a leaking cylinder head gasket (Honda 550 back in the day, and no it wasn't me).  :o :o :o
 
Apart from the 750 mentionned above, all the Laverda engines I've opened were first timers with the gorilla snot. The stuff has to be meticulously scrapped off.
I still have a virgin 650 engine (Breganze) just waiting for me to be on a pension. I'm waiting for that moment as well!  (clock)
Paul
 
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