Daft ignition switch question

C

cwis

Full member
Hi all,

Last weekend I had various issues with the bike, and I've pretty much tracked them down to a problem with the ignition switch. It takes full current and I think steadily heats up, giving me problems with the engine cutting out when I use the indicators, and other excitement.

Searching the archives tells me I could probably refurbish this switch, which is fine.

My question is, how do you remove it? I've tried tapping the lock ring round (it's a steel one) - nothing doing - the whole switch has moved slightly. It's not a left hand thread it is?

Best regards,

Chris.
 
They can sit pretty tight and be hard to remove without burring up.
Once off you can dismantle the it by straightening out the tabs. Clean up the contacts. Fit a relay so that the switch just operates the relay and the relay carries the current.
Not daft question.
 
The hole (and ignition switch) is not circular. There is a flat on it.
It will be obvious once you remove it.
So keep tapping away at the retaining ring. The whole switch will not (cannot) rotate with it.
I use a screwdriver in the recess and tap briskly with a small mallet.
 
Thanks guys! I used slightly more force (small burr that will file out) and now I have it off.

Love the circlip pliers idea - I think mine was too tight for that, but I'll put it back on with them.

From investigation, it looks like this will be the second time someone has been inside this switch!

 
Vince said:
I usually used a set of circlip pliers into the notches around the circumference.
Click to expand...

Check your assorted tools drawer. I checked and found that a cheap Chinese adjustable pin spanner I bought (to replace the original that I lost) for changing the grinding wheel on my angle grinder would have been perfect. Although I've never had to use anything but a big screwdriver and a small hammer.

Ken
 
All back together! I can't believe the bike actually worked - the live contact was black, and the rest were green. Nasty!

I sanded back the plastic a tiny bit to remove tracks where the contacts had dragged, and then very slightly deepened the index holes to compensate. Cleaned all the contacts, added a bit of grease to the front of the switch where the ball bearings are and re-fitted.  Nice positive action now and I'm sure the lights are brighter!

When I rewire (when new paint finally hits the bitza!) I'll fit some relays for the lights etc. A fuse per circuit might be a good idea too!

I'm looking at marine bus bars on ebay as a way to replace the block connectors in the headlight... Any opinions?
 
Just take a look inside a '73/'74 triple headlight (with 6.3mm bus bars) and do what everybody else does, just shudder and put the headlight back. No, multiconnectors are good, bus bars are bad. Maybe not so bad with a wiring loom where the colours are consistent, so that rules out (many) Laverdas. OK, not all, later bikes had better harnesses, but I'd never go back.

Ken
 
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