DIY Clutch plate tensioner

M

MotoV

Hero member
I was going to fabricate this tool but the reality is that it is not really required but if someone has an interest in making their own here is a drawing.
I come from a world where fully dimensioned drawings aren't required but if there are questions I would gladly fill in the blanks. The drawing for the base can be used as a template YMMV

If you're not into making your own they will be available from Wolfgang...

If enough people are interested I could get the base laser cut but it usually takes about 20 pieces to make it worthwhile. I'll get it quoted just for grins and post back later.
 
I'll ask the obvious question, why even bother with those pesky damn springs for in the first place ?

80% of triples do not run them and have no issues, is only the later engines that have them and by now over 50% of them would have the springs missing as well
they serve no purpose apart from wasting 30 mins of your life span when trying to install them
were only used to lessen the clutch rattle and I have never noticed any difference in clutch rattle on engines with or without

that is my take on those springs anyway, save weight and leave them out



 
With you there Red; after stuffing around, I removed the springs and put an extra steel plate between the friction plates. No discernable change in clutch drag, pull or noise.

Terry
 
Think I'll stick to them and revel in not hearing my clutch(es).

Retro-fitted the system to my 3C and the GTL. :D  Truely hate noisy engines... especially if they don't need to be!

Btw, installation takes no longer than 1-2 minutes... :D

piet
 
I understood that you can no longer buy the clutch plates with the spring stubs atatched to them anyway, would be difficult to mod a new clutch plate to add the stub without trashing the whole caboodle,there must be plenty of dealers with stocks of those plated little tee shaped tools, I remember Slaters having a big bin of them all going rusty, from the damp and cold of darkest deppest Hereforsdhire (and a busted warm air heater/tight arsed four eyed brummie who never turned it on)
CLEM
 
The anti-rattle plates are normal plates with 4 or 5 teeth removed and a little hole drilled in the next tooth, easily done to any replacement surflex plate.  I too did away with them years ago, but am coming around to Piet's way of thinking.
 
Clutch of my RGS is extremely noisy until you engage it. There are no anti noise springs in there. Was just contemplating to fit them again. I have the tool but never used it, until some day soon..
Need to adjust the excenter for the gear-shift mechanism, so can do it while I'm at it.

Marnix
 
Re. retro-fitting.

This can easily be accomplished in a standard twin or triple clutch by removing one(!) friction surface from 2 old cluth plates to make them as thin as possible.  Then 5 teeth are removed 180? opposite each other on both and a 2mm hole drilled on the first tooth adjacent to each cavity.  The 2 plates are then hooked up with the springs with the freshly-cleaned steel surfaces upon each other and inserted as per the Mk II and 120? models.  The clutch drum of course requires a little machining, easy and quick on a milling machine, takes a little longer with a Dremel.

Helps dampen much of the clonking so commonly associated to Laverdas. "No sir, they do not all make that 'orrible noise!"...one more myth busted! :D 

piet
 
The stock plates I just "unglued" (due to 17 yr storage)  have friction material to friction material - not steel to steel am I missing something?
 
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