D
Davo
Guest
In that case they do not look like a fit - sorry.
Easier fork oil replacement
- Thread starter drikko
- Start date
T
Terry Dymond
Guest
Drikko,
I knocked up a front stand for my RGS out of chipboard, threaded rod and lots of liquid nails, works a treat; can now leave the bike without the front wheel fitted with peace of mind.
Whatever you do, resist the temptation of supporting the bike under the header pipes, the collector could crack.
Took me about an hour to make the stand, go ahead, you know it makes sense
Terry
I knocked up a front stand for my RGS out of chipboard, threaded rod and lots of liquid nails, works a treat; can now leave the bike without the front wheel fitted with peace of mind.
Whatever you do, resist the temptation of supporting the bike under the header pipes, the collector could crack.
Took me about an hour to make the stand, go ahead, you know it makes sense
Terry
Where does it support terry? Through under the engine mounts? Piccy if you get time
You are probably right Grant, one of the forks seals is weeping slightly so will have to pull it all apart again.
Not as bad as one of the beemer fork seals though, it is just flowing out. Now there's a big job. Getting it's front wheel off is a 6-pack job alone....
You are probably right Grant, one of the forks seals is weeping slightly so will have to pull it all apart again.
Not as bad as one of the beemer fork seals though, it is just flowing out. Now there's a big job. Getting it's front wheel off is a 6-pack job alone....
Melle
Full member
- Location
- Lelystad, the Netherlands
that`s why: never had a 35 mm Ceriani fork...Laverdalothar said:MarnixSFC said:
that's why: never had a 38mm Ceriani fork...
Thanks for clearing that up, Marnix
Thanks Marnix, sorry Lothar!!
Regards, Melle
- Location
- Calgary, Alberta, Canada
I think the very easiest, quickest, and most accurate approach is to drop both fork legs, disassemble them, clean them out properly (I use a parts washing tank) to get all the abrasive crap out of the bottoms, then fill them to an accurate measured level with forks compressed and springs out, then stick them back on the bike. On either bike, start to finish maybe 45 minutes, tops, a proper job done..... 
undo pinch bolts on upper and lower triple clamps (4 bolts)
remove both calipers and hang from coat hangar wire (4 bolts)
remove speedo cable (one clamp)
remove lower fork axle clamps (4 nuts)
set front wheel aside
slide both fork legs out
use air gun to remove fork leg bolt (2 bolts)
use air gun to remove upper fork caps (2)
seperate upper and lower fork legs, and clean everything in parts washer
put clean upper fork leg back into lower fork leg and
use air gun to reinstall fork leg bolt, preferably with fresh copper washer
collapse upper fork leg into lower fork leg, add oil to measured level
drop in spring, and spacer if any, install upper fork leg caps with hand pressure pushing down on a rag, then tighten with air gun
reinstal, with fresh antiseize on all fasteners, and inside the triple tree holes
-total max 45 minutes or less
make sure on reassembly that you properly true the forks in the sliders, check air pressure in tires.
Paul LeClair
undo pinch bolts on upper and lower triple clamps (4 bolts)
remove both calipers and hang from coat hangar wire (4 bolts)
remove speedo cable (one clamp)
remove lower fork axle clamps (4 nuts)
set front wheel aside
slide both fork legs out
use air gun to remove fork leg bolt (2 bolts)
use air gun to remove upper fork caps (2)
seperate upper and lower fork legs, and clean everything in parts washer
put clean upper fork leg back into lower fork leg and
use air gun to reinstall fork leg bolt, preferably with fresh copper washer
collapse upper fork leg into lower fork leg, add oil to measured level
drop in spring, and spacer if any, install upper fork leg caps with hand pressure pushing down on a rag, then tighten with air gun
reinstal, with fresh antiseize on all fasteners, and inside the triple tree holes
-total max 45 minutes or less
make sure on reassembly that you properly true the forks in the sliders, check air pressure in tires.
Paul LeClair
G
Grant
Guest
That's all good and well with Marzocchis Paul, but on my Ceriani-clad 3C the fork top nut is wider than the stanchion so has to be removed before the stanchion can slide out of the yoke.
Excellent thanks Paul. I recently got a good quality air wrench which seems to have very controllable retightening torque control ie can make it so it only tightens lightly then use the torque wrench, Makes life easy
I saw the correct oil levels in another post.
Cheers
D
Yay, something to do on these ever increasingly cold nights, it plummeted down to a spine chilling 15 last night
I saw the correct oil levels in another post.
Cheers
D
Yay, something to do on these ever increasingly cold nights, it plummeted down to a spine chilling 15 last night
T
Terry Dymond
Guest
G'day Drikko,
My support sits against the frame rails either side of where the header pipes join the collector.
I used chipboard about an inch thick with the upper edges scalloped so that they fit firmly against the frame rails. The two 'uprights' are in line with the rails. Once I figure out the correct length between the rails and the ground, I fitted chipboard braces between the two uprights and secured them together with dowels , threaded rod and nuts and heaps of liquid nails.
Now all I have to do is lift the front of the bike with one hand and slide the stand in and to remove it; lift the front and pull the string and 'chocks away'.
May not be a thing of beauty but very handy.
My support sits against the frame rails either side of where the header pipes join the collector.
I used chipboard about an inch thick with the upper edges scalloped so that they fit firmly against the frame rails. The two 'uprights' are in line with the rails. Once I figure out the correct length between the rails and the ground, I fitted chipboard braces between the two uprights and secured them together with dowels , threaded rod and nuts and heaps of liquid nails.
Now all I have to do is lift the front of the bike with one hand and slide the stand in and to remove it; lift the front and pull the string and 'chocks away'.
May not be a thing of beauty but very handy.