Err, what's this ? (RGS)
- Thread starter Ventodue
- Start date
Simonr501
Hero member
- Location
- Lympne, Kent. UK
An annealed copper washer under the nut, and/or a good splash of Loctite 577 hydraulic sealant - it never lets me down!
R
Reggie3cl
Guest
Out of focus?
redax5 said:
Ta Red and Simon.SimonR501 said:
As to the leak ...
Well, I've long thought that it was the oil filter plate that was leaking. So far, I've checked the plate for flatness (as best I can) and changed the 'O' ring and the studs. But there's still oil hanging off the nut, and I can't see how it could get there except by coming down the stud.
Any thoughts appreciated. If it is the stud, is it best to leave the nut alone?
Ciao
Craig
P.s As in number 12 here, I now see. Duh - apologies for not having thought to look in the manual beforehand ...)
Simonr501
Hero member
- Location
- Lympne, Kent. UK
If you use sealant then it needs to oil-free and the nut removed.
A little bit of hassle, but as I said the 577 is magic for sealing.
I use it on my sump plug with no copper washer, never a drip!
It has the added advantage of acting like a thread locker as well so no temptation to overtighten.
A little bit of hassle, but as I said the 577 is magic for sealing.
I use it on my sump plug with no copper washer, never a drip!
It has the added advantage of acting like a thread locker as well so no temptation to overtighten.
CLEMTOG
Hero member
Stud number 12 does not have a copper washer, it is a dome nut and a plain washer, there is no oil at this stud, the crankcase should be blind to the stud hole, so it is unlikely that oil is finding its way out of the sealed metal to metal joint around the stud hole.Studs 7 and 8 should have copper washers, although there is only oil from the pump at only one of those studs, the reason that they are both copper is to be sure that the thermal expansion/contraction on that bearing is the same at both sides of it,all the other (same size) domed nuts under neath the cases are also bearing clamps, so correct torque is desirable, the remaining nuts are just case clamping.
CLEM
CLEM
CLEMTOG said:
Ah, ta Clem (I guess that's what Red meant by "shouldn't leak".)
So, sounds like there's no point in me doing anything to it then? Just how oil is getting on the nut, including bridging the gap, remains a mystery ... I shall have to investigate further.
your "oil strainer" plate, take one nut off at a time and add an extra flat washer onto the stud, reinstall nut and tighten up, take next off, repeat, until all 3 studs have an extra flat washer installed
remember you are stuffing with a 6mm stud so don't go crazy with the tighten deal
oil could be weeping out of the oil strainer plate o-ring and making it look like it is coming from stud 12, it is noticeable that the only stud giving you trouble is straight behind the strainer plate
is that just a coincidence or not ?? ???
remember you are stuffing with a 6mm stud so don't go crazy with the tighten deal
oil could be weeping out of the oil strainer plate o-ring and making it look like it is coming from stud 12, it is noticeable that the only stud giving you trouble is straight behind the strainer plate
is that just a coincidence or not ?? ???
CLEMTOG
Hero member
change back to non synthetic
try and wrap something to catch the oil from the sump plate and stop it getting blown back onto the bearing stud, maybe one of those elasticated sweat bands that joggers use? the plate is sealed with an O ring,so should be good, but the studs could leak oil down the threads I suppose, maybe they should locktited in place to prevent that, I cant recall if they are blind or not, they might not be.
CLEM
try and wrap something to catch the oil from the sump plate and stop it getting blown back onto the bearing stud, maybe one of those elasticated sweat bands that joggers use? the plate is sealed with an O ring,so should be good, but the studs could leak oil down the threads I suppose, maybe they should locktited in place to prevent that, I cant recall if they are blind or not, they might not be.
CLEM
The stud in question goes through the sealing surface of the cases and is normally oil-tight and dry, oil should not be able to creep down through the threads.
Those studs that are sealed with a copper washer pass through bores that either transport oil, or are not oil tight.
Craig, check the oil strainer plate for warpage or cracks, not uncommon if the wrong size o-ring has been fitted at some stage. If the plate is flat and true, no extra measures apart from the correct o-ring should be required to keep the oil inside.
piet
Those studs that are sealed with a copper washer pass through bores that either transport oil, or are not oil tight.
Craig, check the oil strainer plate for warpage or cracks, not uncommon if the wrong size o-ring has been fitted at some stage. If the plate is flat and true, no extra measures apart from the correct o-ring should be required to keep the oil inside.
piet
Thanks Clem and Piet. All 'Grist to the Mill'.
Well, I had a closer look today and look what I found ... :-[
Hmmm ... Seems a previous owner reckons it's a leaky crankcase. That said, I didn't think 120s suffered from this particular fault - ? But I guess there's always an exception ...
Btw, there hasn't been a drop since I started this thread
. Not that I'm complaining, you understand ...
Ciao
Craig
Well, I had a closer look today and look what I found ... :-[
Hmmm ... Seems a previous owner reckons it's a leaky crankcase. That said, I didn't think 120s suffered from this particular fault - ? But I guess there's always an exception ...
Btw, there hasn't been a drop since I started this thread
. Not that I'm complaining, you understand ...Ciao
Craig