Final Drive Chain - Mirage 1200TS

L

lawrence

Hero member
Location
Idaho, USA
It's time I changed out the final drive chain on my Mirage. It's the original (huge!) chain.  I will fit a smaller chain and sprockets.  Okay, what's the problem? Well, I don't know how much chain to buy.  If I downsize to a 530 (?) chain and sprockets, will the number of links be identical to the original OEM chain?
Here in the US, is the most practical source of new sprockets Wolfgang? Finally, should I -very much a touring rider- look for steel sprockets, or are aluminum durable and practical these days?  I'm not a racer by any means, but unsprung weight is unsprung weight....
 
A 530 or 520 chain will need 106 links with standard gearing.
Many folk are fitting 520 these days as it allows wider tyre sizes, but in the extreme case needs offset sprockets.
If I were you I would go for a 530 chain as there are questionmarks over longevity of 520 chains. Yes they can handle the power of a Jap rocket or MotoGP bike but by their very nature they have less surface area to withstand the abuse than a 530.
630 is way too muchand doesso much damage to cases and swingarm/frame and affects gearchange too. All too heavy and clunky.
Not sure what to say about choice of rear sprocket material. I have alloy on POP but it hasn't turned in anger yet. Are there any chain/sprocket companies in your area that could advise? In the UK there are many to choose from.

HTH
 
Lawrence

Your best bet is just to get new sprockets from Wolfgang and see what he's offering for a 530 chain. There are some sprocket makers here in the US who can still make Laverda sprockets, but I don't think anyone keeps them in stock, while Wolfgang does.
Chain is a different matter. There's LOTS of people here who'll sell you a 530 chain, and what you select is really based on personal choice and also possibly usage. An X-ring chain will probably outlast you unless you're planning on using your 30 year old motorbike for extended touring. If you're like most people here who use their Laverda for mostly short fun rides, the chain really doesn't matter all that much. I really like the big pin Iwis chain that Wolfgang and AndyChain both offer, mine just doesn't seem to wear except when I ride in the rain. There's also a nickel plated version that doesn't rust, only costs a bit more.

Ken
 
Lawrence , good move mate

As Tom suggested Wolfie is the go for sprockets , steel only at gearbox and alu at rear.
If you are touring as suggested look at getting a 39 on rear .
As for chain go down to your local bike shop get a good o/ring chain , they come with plenty of
length , shorten to suit . Happy Days :D

Hooksey.
 
I confess I haven't yet looked in the owner's manual to verify the rear sprocket size -- I take it you're recommending a smaller than stock rear sprocket Hooksey?  I think the ol' girl could easily pull taller gearing, what with the Axtell cams and the Mikuni RS carburettors.  I plan to cover a good many miles on the beast this summer and with the recent increase in the cost of fuel, taller gearing really appeals to my wallet.
Some of those miles will be heading north to Nakusp in July.  Just today Wolfgang sent the rally announcement out.  It'll be earlier than normal this year -- July 8-10.  That's always a delightful ride for me. Nothing better at journey's end than seeing old friends with warm smiles.  The hot springs aren't bad after a longish ride either  :D
 
Lawrence

19/40 is the standard gearing. Yes, 1200s can easily pull 39 or even 38 on the back, but it does place considerably more strain on the gearbox outer bearing and the wheel bearing, so running very tall gearing on a bike that'll get used in town is one of these things you have to decide about. Picking up a spare sprocket carrier and having an easy to change rear end is one way around it, although nobody ever said Laverda back wheels were particularly fast for changes.

Ken
 
Bear in mind some US models had shorter gearing.  

With the early models it was intended to keep the revs up to maintain battery charge, later it was needed to keep quoted 1/4mile times feasable! :D

Searching for a 18T front #530 sprocket.... :(

piet
 
I buy the set from B & C Express in UK they cost around ?53 for the pair, both are in steel as I find rear allow ones wear quickly.

Gearing I get is 19-40. I have sold several to Laverda owners, even the USA, so ask about the performance on here.

Andy

PS I would try an iwis non O ring as raced in OZ, good, light and half the price of O ring
 
I've no doubt you know chains and sprockets, Andy.  But surly for the touring rider an O-ring chain is more practical.  For all the stress racing puts on a chain, it can be changed out frequently (and they no doubt are).  Riding in rain and sandy, blowing grit for extended periods of time punishes an exposed chain, which sees a much longer service interval.
I've no automatic chain oiling system on my Mirage, which I imagine might make a non- O-ring chain a practical proposition for an old touring rider like me. 
 
If you are touring then I have to admit an O ring is not a bad idea, but also if you are doing high miles an alloy sprocket is also not an ideal way to go. As a tip......the only chain that is interchangable in gearing terms between American Standard (asa) and British Standard (BS) is 5/8.

You should have no problems getting an asa50 platewheel with 40 teeth. Just take you old sprocket and the platewheel to your tame machine shop and get the fixing points copied.

Andy
 
Hi Lawrence

the last final drive chain I bought recently was an RK X ring chain, I paid $95 for it for 102 links for my Kawasaki KZ 650 SR rebuild. I am intending to use the RK X ring chains on my Laverda's in appropriate lengths when their chains next need replacing. Came with both a rivet master link and a clip type masterlink, I used the clip type as I don't have a chain link riveting tool

worth reading this article abour current motorcyle chain, convinced me, but will be interesting to see what Andy makes of it.....

http://www.quality-cycle.com/truth_about_motorcycle_chains.htm

Paul LeClair

and a question for Andy Chain...

what is the best chain lube for an X ring or O ring chain?  I have three kinds of chain lube in my garage, Maxima Chain Wax, PJ1 red, and PJ1 black. These days I mostly can't stand to deal with the huge mess either PJ1 product makes, so I have been using the nice clean Maxima Chain wax, but I don't have any hard data as to whether I should be using the chain wax or not..........
 
Interesting piece on m/c chains, Paul.  Thanks for that.  Have you tried Dupont Teflon chain lube?  It certainly won't make a mess of the rear wheel.  I've used it for about 4 years.  My can on PJ1 is still sitting on the shelf in the garage. 
 
Here we go again.

In my opinion, standard disclaimer, the shape of the seal is unimportant as they all do the same job. It seems funny that although if your producing billions of bit of rubber the shape would have little influence on the cost, but when fitted in chain they rise????

I would always advise the use of a standard O ring on price aloan.

As for lube well it is whatever floats your boat. The part that needs lube on any chain is the pin and bush and in the same way as O rings leep lube in they also prevent lube getting in. A wide down with any oily rag will deter rust but copious amounts of spray will end up on your tyre. You should never boil an O ring chain.

As with all maintainance you will get differing stories from everybody but I would also not advise a Scott for O ring, I have seen hundreds of bikes running O ring and a Scott, the common factor is loads of expensive oil on the wheel and chain guards.

Just as an aside the point of O ring is to lessen maintainence. The crucial parts, pins, bushes etc are common. A well maintained non O ring will last as long if not longer than a non maintained O ring. Having said that although I run iwis non O ring on my Bandit If I go touring over the channel I do put an O ring on :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

Andy

Now sitting back and waiting for the flak 
 
mcnicol said:
Lawrence

19/40 is the standard gearing. Yes, 1200s can easily pull 39 or even 38 on the back, but it does place considerably more strain on the gearbox outer bearing and the wheel bearing, so running very tall gearing on a bike that'll get used in town is one of these things you have to decide about. Picking up a spare sprocket carrier and having an easy to change rear end is one way around it, although nobody ever said Laverda back wheels were particularly fast for changes.

Ken
Click to expand...

Back in my racing days, we used to have rear sprockets cut in half, so you change one half, turn the wheel half a circle and then change
the other half of sprocket without even taking the chain off .
Boba
 
Boba

Standard practice in Karting. I had a special tensioner so I did not even have to move anything to get the tension right. I could do a gearing change in about a minute.
 
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