Final drive, front sprocket play on spline

I'd probably ride my bike every other day if I didn't have domestic commitments. Even as it is I've done 2500km on the SFQ in less than 6 months that it's been rideable (lost Dec to May with the piston melt). Once i start doing some touring miles that distance will grow rapidly. that's why I'm trying to cover every teething problem so that I end up with a very reliable mount - busted starter chains aren't helping!!! :eek:
 
I'd probably ride my bike every other day if I didn't have domestic commitments. Even as it is I've done 2500km on the SFQ in less than 6 months that it's been rideable (lost Dec to May with the piston melt). Once i start doing some touring miles that distance will grow rapidly. that's why I'm trying to cover every teething problem so that I end up with a very reliable mount - busted starter chains aren't helping!!! :eek:
They brake on start up or do you find them broken after running?
 
Many years ago I had mine metal sprayed and refinished by Duralloy Gears in Christchurch. Brilliant job.
Thanks for that, they look like they know what they're doing. I might also have a chat to a local mob up here.
Now I need to put on my orange overalls and rip the donk out ;) Not keen on letting it get any worse
 
Not sure if your aware you can drop the lower case off without having to remove the head and barrels. Bit trickier getting the selector forks in place when upside down on reassembling but not difficult.
I have my old worn spline I'd be keen to have refurbed if there was a not overly expensive solution.
 
Not sure if your aware you can drop the lower case off without having to remove the head and barrels. Bit trickier getting the selector forks in place when upside down on reassembling but not difficult.
I have my old worn spline I'd be keen to have refurbed if there was a not overly expensive solution.
Yeah thanks Rob, I was hoping to get at it through the bottom and confirmed it with the experts 👍 It's only got 40k on the clock so didn't really want to do a full rebuild for a couple more years. Thanks for the tip on the selectors, I'm grateful for any advice.
I'll let you know how the spline repair goes.
 
Best way to split the bottom end that I have found is to use a chain block to lift the top off of the bottom case, gearbox shafts stay in the bottom half, that way there is no issue with lining up the selector forks

I will be doing it to my 2nd race engine in hopefully 3 weeks time to install the extra extended output shaft to convert that bike to a 180 rear tyre same as the Mule, I always try and keep both bikes the same as close as possible so Matt jumps off of one and the other feels the same
Dropped the Output shafts off to Heat Treatment Australia to be hardened today

Photo below taken in 2018 when we finally machined up the extended nose Output shafts as was so over breaking a fucking gearbox Mainshaft every race meeting in at least one bike, actual photo was taken after the Mac Park meeting where I drove 2,200 klms home with both bikes with broken fucking Mainshafts

Pulled them both apart at the same time and changed them both to run outrigger bearings on the Output shaft, never broken a Mainshaft since
You can see both engines have their lifting straps in place by using an eye end over the crank snout on each end and you control the lift by using a ratchet strap around the barrels or head to stop the lifting strap from slipping, the lift is top heavy and will try to flip over
Since that photo was taken I prefer to position the ratchet strap higher up just below the inlet manifolds but still around the cylinder head

This is how I do them, there will be other methods no doubt but this works for me

11th May race engines
 
Yes, but if you ride 300 miles a year, you've got a few years before you need to worry.
Who on this forum rides his Laverda thousands of miles a year?
Paul
I do in fact my "soft" gentlemens Laverda an RGA has done 10,000 kms so far in the last 12 months 3500 over 4 days a couple of weeks ago but what' s worse is the fact that my old T140V Bonnie is doing 1000 miles per month as my main commuter. (can I mention that on a Laverda forum) :)
 
Wolfgang had or may still have sprockets with the splines a little smaller to take up the spline wear. Now this was 10 years ago and the one on my 3CL has not worn anymore since fitting one.

As for my RGS it also had some wear and I used molybdenum disulfide paste (not grease) on the splines and all wear stopped. I re-grease it every few thousand miles.

You want something like this with at least 50% moly. I use it to fit all sprockets even if no wear on the splines.

 
Wolfgang had or may still have sprockets with the splines a little smaller to take up the spline wear. Now this was 10 years ago and the one on my 3CL has not worn anymore since fitting one.

As for my RGS it also had some wear and I used molybdenum disulfide paste (not grease) on the splines and all wear stopped. I re-grease it every few thousand miles.

You want something like this with at least 50% moly. I use it to fit all sprockets even if no wear on the splines.

Interesting. Probably a bit late for me this time but good info. It's definitely another thing that I've learnt needs regular checking.
I have spoken to Wolfgang and I've got a new shaft and sprocket on the way 👍 Once the dust settles I'll see about repairing the old shaft, just need to cultivate a relationship with a friendly engineer 😉
 
Most experts are friendly - it's just they're also expensive :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
My last two engineers have cashed in their chips, I still have an alloy-boat builder but I don't think spline reconstruction is in his long list of talents... although 🤔.... hmmm got me thinking now... he owes me a favour and he has a mate...
 
My last two engineers have cashed in their chips, I still have an alloy-boat builder but I don't think spline reconstruction is in his long list of talents... although 🤔.... hmmm got me thinking now... he owes me a favour and he has a mate...

I bet your boat builder mate knows someone that does spline reconstruction work. Boat motors have splines for props, gearboxes etc. You may be surprised.
 
Wolfgang had or may still have sprockets with the splines a little smaller to take up the spline wear. Now this was 10 years ago and the one on my 3CL has not worn anymore since fitting one.

As for my RGS it also had some wear and I used molybdenum disulfide paste (not grease) on the splines and all wear stopped. I re-grease it every few thousand miles.

You want something like this with at least 50% moly. I use it to fit all sprockets even if no wear on the splines.

I installed one of Wolfgang’s about ten years ago. A bitch to get on even after heating it right hot but no issues since.
 
I installed one of Wolfgang’s about ten years ago. A bitch to get on even after heating it right hot but no issues since.
Yeah it's advice like this (did I mention that this is a great forum?) that led me to order a "set" from Wolfgang, yet to see if current stock will be as tight as yours but we'll see 👍
Main thing is that I now understand the issue and can mitigate problems in the future 😁
 
The last time I did sprockets on my 3c one of the club blokes needed to use something called an induction heater to expand the front sprocket enough to fit. It was tight, I had never seen that heater gadget before, made for purpose engineering gadget.
 
The last time I did sprockets on my 3c one of the club blokes needed to use something called an induction heater to expand the front sprocket enough to fit. It was tight, I had never seen that heater gadget before, made for purpose engineering gadget.
You beauty! So that’s a proper use for that horrendously expensive induction hob in our kitchen!
 
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