Best way to split the bottom end that I have found is to use a chain block to lift the top off of the bottom case, gearbox shafts stay in the bottom half, that way there is no issue with lining up the selector forks
I will be doing it to my 2nd race engine in hopefully 3 weeks time to install the extra extended output shaft to convert that bike to a 180 rear tyre same as the Mule, I always try and keep both bikes the same as close as possible so Matt jumps off of one and the other feels the same
Dropped the Output shafts off to Heat Treatment Australia to be hardened today
Photo below taken in 2018 when we finally machined up the extended nose Output shafts as was so over breaking a fucking gearbox Mainshaft every race meeting in at least one bike, actual photo was taken after the Mac Park meeting where I drove 2,200 klms home with both bikes with broken fucking Mainshafts
Pulled them both apart at the same time and changed them both to run outrigger bearings on the Output shaft, never broken a Mainshaft since
You can see both engines have their lifting straps in place by using an eye end over the crank snout on each end and you control the lift by using a ratchet strap around the barrels or head to stop the lifting strap from slipping, the lift is top heavy and will try to flip over
Since that photo was taken I prefer to position the ratchet strap higher up just below the inlet manifolds but still around the cylinder head
This is how I do them, there will be other methods no doubt but this works for me
11th May race engines