chrisk
Hero member
- Location
- Brisbane, Australia
And you can cook an omelette afterwardsYou beauty! So that’s a proper use for that horrendously expensive induction hob in our kitchen!
And you can cook an omelette afterwardsYou beauty! So that’s a proper use for that horrendously expensive induction hob in our kitchen!
I'm a big fan of Tuatara!
Won't work on really shagged splines Vince. And you're forgetting changing down, this puts tremendous pressure on the opposite sides of the splines. The Loctite may take up gaps of up to 0.2mm reliably, but will yield under pressure. Not exactly what is needed.There is a Loctite product designed to take up gaps when bearings are loose in their housing. You probably need it really clean and a primer and the sprocket hard against its driven direction and a day or 2 for full curing.
LOCTITE® 660
LOCTITE 660 is a high strength retaining compound with good gap filling properties, ideal for repairing worn-out seats, keys, splines, bearings or tapers without remachining.www.henkel-adhesives.com
Cheers Maurice, yes I found a few posts from you and Red etc that pointed left. All advice is welcome and I try to follow it as best I can . I was just sort of experimenting with my hoist rig and went further than I expected. It came out easily, maybe because I had already removed the alternator and primary? Now that I'm 'experienced' I might fully assemble it on the bench and then I'll definitely go left.Hey Andy its easier to remove and refit the RGS engine from the LHS.
Sorry, short delay while I picked up a different set of tools and fixed the shed lights...You can't really do anything to improve the shaft splines, but i'd at least do a crude check on the sprocket hardness.
Just trying a dot punch will tell you if it's particularly hard or visibly soft.
If you want to tighten the fit, a ring of weld around the sprocket - far enough out from the shaft to not affect the retainer and far enough in to miss the chain - will shrink the center hole slightly as it cools.
If the sprocket tests as soft, heat to cherry red and quench in oil.
More good advice, possibly difficult to find a specialist here in NZ, the last one I knew lost the fight a few years ago, but I take your point.If looking to repair the splines on a worn out gear, I would check with companies that repair the splines on BMW bikes. The air head bikes from 1970 to 1995, all had problems with the rear wheel splines. The early K bikes had spline problems with the drive shaft.
I had the splines repaired on a 1978 BMW R100RS that were almost completely gone and they welded it with hard facing and it never wore ever again even after 100,000 miles.
Highly unlikely the sprocket would be soft, Greg. It's the splines that seem to get hammered. No easy fix on them without a case split and some specialised engineering work.You can't really do anything to improve the shaft splines, but i'd at least do a crude check on the sprocket hardness.
Just trying a dot punch will tell you if it's particularly hard or visibly soft.