Final drive, front sprocket play on spline

The last of my replacement bearings turned up today so reassembly begins...

Are there any opinions on assembly oil/grease/paste?

I have purposely not cleaned off any oil from inside the motor so a thin coating remains on everything, but should I add anything extra to any particular points?
 
I just squirt oil on anything I can get to before assembly. Gearbox I just oil the bearings and the selector ring-fork journals, a little on oil seals. Top end, oil the rings well, a bit in the bores (too much just ends up being pushed out the top by the rings). Cams will benefit at startup from a bit of cam assembly grease. But really, once you start the bike oil will flow and splash everywhere very quickly.
 
I use a smear of graphogen on the cams (bearings and lobes), but otherwise just wet moving/rubbing/turning bits, with oil. For 'oil' I have can of 20w50 mixed with STP as a thickener, to help keep the oil in place while I bolt up, but not essential of course.
Have used Lucas assembly paste in the past, which appeared to do the job nicely.

For me, the important thing is to turn the engine first without it firing, to get oil near where it needs to be, or close, before applying the fire.
 
Thanks to everyone who gave me advice as I went on this voyage of discovery, I enjoyed the journey. The old girl is back in one piece again and running like a charm. In addition to the output shaft she got new sprockets and chain, new clutch master and slave, a bunch of new bearings and seals and innumerable odds and ends "while I'm at it". New front sprocket is push-tight and has a coat of 50% moly on the spline, that'll be checked regularly. I'll investigate repairing the old output shaft at some stage. The tiny little bearings in the output shaft are replaced and I'll be more careful than ever to make sure not to overtighten the final drive chain. The slipping clutch (which was the original problem) seems to be cured, poorly maintained hydraulics was the problem. Renewed now and working well.
And plenty of oil getting to the top end as witnessed by the oil coming out of the cam cover, so that's another seal on order :ROFLMAO:

Thanks again to all those who offered advice and suggestions, this work would have been a lot more daunting without the help and contacts on this forum.
 
Good stuff Andy. Nice to get the beast back on the road running sweetly. I'm also keeping an eye on my gearbox sprocket. As I expected, the Loctite stuff I applied did nothing and when I had the cover off I gave the sprocket a wiggle and sure enough there's the slight rocking play.

One success I think I can confirm is that I've completely cured the tendency to occasionally remain in 2nd after I'd changed to 3rd. While it was 'mostly' fine, I was still getting errant shifts. So i adjusted a little further and last night it was faultless. Touching wood. Very interesting that the solution involves the reverse of what you'd expect ... assuming the pin drum wasn't rotating far enough to set the hook to pick up for the next shift - but assuming wrong. It was actually going a tad too far, with the same result - pins not in place to engage with the hook. I would have expected the detent, roller and spring in the selector drum plate mechanism inside would click it into place, but seems not. Anyway, it was nice to flick the lever with full confidence it would shift.

Reminded me of an of 50s British B&W film about Spitfires(?) breaking the sound barrier - pilots hauling with all their might on the lever unable to pull out of a dive and crashing helplessly into the ground. The test pilot in the film did the opposite and pushed the lever away from himself and the plane pulled out of the dive.
 
piranha-bro2 said:
Good stuff Andy. Nice to get the beast back on the road running sweetly. I'm also keeping an eye on my gearbox sprocket. As I expected, the Loctite stuff I applied did nothing and when I had the cover off I gave the sprocket a wiggle and sure enough there's the slight rocking play.

One success I think I can confirm is that I've completely cured the tendency to occasionally remain in 2nd after I'd changed to 3rd. While it was 'mostly' fine, I was still getting errant shifts. So i adjusted a little further and last night it was faultless. Touching wood. Very interesting that the solution involves the reverse of what you'd expect ... assuming the pin drum wasn't rotating far enough to set the hook to pick up for the next shift - but assuming wrong. It was actually going a tad too far, with the same result - pins not in place to engage with the hook. I would have expected the detent, roller and spring in the selector drum plate mechanism inside would click it into place, but seems not. Anyway, it was nice to flick the lever with full confidence it would shift.

Reminded me of an of 50s British B&W film about Spitfires(?) breaking the sound barrier - pilots hauling with all their might on the lever unable to pull out of a dive and crashing helplessly into the ground. The test pilot in the film did the opposite and pushed the lever away from himself and the plane pulled out of the dive.
Click to expand...
I've noticed that as well, the drum goes too far.
It's a heavy old thing with plenty of inertia. The SFC drum is drilled to oblivion and the shaft with the pins is waisted. There's too much weight in the Laverda shift mechanism.

Paul
 
Do you think masking off the teeth and hard chroming the centre of a new sprocket would take up play? The last front sprocket I added to my 3c required the use of an Induction heater to expand it so it fitted. It was TIGHT. I have some wobble in the Atlas front sprocket, it shows approximately 25,000ks on the Speedo.
 
piranha-bro2 said:
Good stuff Andy. Nice to get the beast back on the road running sweetly. I'm also keeping an eye on my gearbox sprocket. As I expected, the Loctite stuff I applied did nothing and when I had the cover off I gave the sprocket a wiggle and sure enough there's the slight rocking play.

One success I think I can confirm is that I've completely cured the tendency to occasionally remain in 2nd after I'd changed to 3rd. While it was 'mostly' fine, I was still getting errant shifts. So i adjusted a little further and last night it was faultless. Touching wood. Very interesting that the solution involves the reverse of what you'd expect ... assuming the pin drum wasn't rotating far enough to set the hook to pick up for the next shift - but assuming wrong. It was actually going a tad too far, with the same result - pins not in place to engage with the hook. I would have expected the detent, roller and spring in the selector drum plate mechanism inside would click it into place, but seems not. Anyway, it was nice to flick the lever with full confidence it would shift.

Reminded me of an of 50s British B&W film about Spitfires(?) breaking the sound barrier - pilots hauling with all their might on the lever unable to pull out of a dive and crashing helplessly into the ground. The test pilot in the film did the opposite and pushed the lever away from himself and the plane pulled out of the dive.
Click to expand...
Compressibility: the transonic shockwave moves back onto the elevators locking them solid. Using the trim tab is often the only way to get the nose up. This is also one reason they went to the full flying elevator/horizontal stabilizer and hydraulic boosted controls.
 
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