Gold Finish on fork bott

Vince said:
Buggar thought the manufacturer might have gone there to reduce stiction.

Vince,

The slider itself doesn't have any contact with the stanchion, it moves on the split bushes.  Or do you have one of the rare versions without bushes?  Nevr seen internal anodising on any Marzocchi product...

piet
 
Just a thought bubble, if it was hard anodised outside then maybe internal as well. I am looking at doing the usual Maz 38mm on my Pantah internally and I have no idea if it can be restricted to internal only, or even how thick it is. Seems its used by USA Race Tech as a sticksion reducer. Much simpler than going to a bush conversion.
 
sfcpiet said:
Vince,

The slider itself doesn't have any contact with the stanchion, it moves on the split bushes.  Or do you have one of the rare versions without bushes?  Nevr seen internal anodising on any Marzocchi product...

piet

Bottom bush would still be running on the bore of the slider...??  And presumably Vincenzo is optimistically hoping that if it's anodised on the outside (which I agree it likely isn't) then it would be anodised on the inside... which is known to reduce stiction.
 
Vince said:
Just a thought bubble, if it was hard anodised outside then maybe internal as well. I am looking at doing the usual Maz 38mm on my Pantah internally and I have no idea if it can be restricted to internal only, or even how thick it is.

It can be masked but as I understand it can be tricky, it's an immersion process somewhat like plating.  Hard anodising is a little different to decorative anodising, but either process will likely benefit... it converts part of the surface into a hard layer, more or less by corrosion.  Therefore if it's done heavy it can increase the bore size slightly.
I looked into it a while back for much the same reasons as you, then bought a set of Ohlins instead.  Will follow with interest though.  These are the guys I spoke to:
http://www.electromold.com.au/products/hard_anodise
 
breganzane said:
It can be masked but as I understand it can be tricky, it's an immersion process somewhat like plating.  Hard anodising is a little different to decorative anodising, but either process will likely benefit... it converts part of the surface into a hard layer, more or less by corrosion.

When I had my alloy swing arm modified, I did some research into removing anodising (for welding purposes) 'cause you can't weld where the anodising is.
Did some research and spray on oven cleaner works a treat. Just a handy hint for you blokes.
 
I have just been to Competition Coatings, about an item we have on our machines, hard anodised aluminium. We were looking for something that will reduce drag over this part, he used some stuff they use on Teflon coated race pistons (after Teflon coating), and it's now as slippery as all get out! Good for fork stiction I thought.
 
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