HELP - cannot refit SF3 camchain

M

macavity99

Full member
Location
Bedfordshire, UK
Got the engine pivoted down, still attached by two rear bolt. Refitted barrel and cylinder head today.

Nothing lines up with the camchain. I've got ends of chain in my hands but the the crankshaft TDC mark is nowhere near where it should be. How can I move the chain on the crankshaft sprocket to get everything lined up?

The green book says on page 60: "The cylinder must be truly vertical for the cam chain to be free of the lower sprocket".

Does this mean that I must remove engine from frame completely to finish reassembly? Or is there a way around the problem?

Thanks

Steve in UK
 
macavity99 said:
The green book says on page 60: "The cylinder must be truly vertical for the cam chain to be free of the lower sprocket".

Does this mean that I must remove engine from frame completely to finish reassembly? Or is there a way around the problem?
Click to expand...

The green book is correct, Steve.

As soon as the engine is inclined, the chain will catch on the crank sprocket and makes it extremely difficult to change the chains' position.  

You might want to remove the sump plate, attach 2 long bits of wire to each end of the chain and drop it down the chain tunnel and try fiddling it back up with the wire to get it better positioned.  It does help to have the barrel in a vertical plane though... got a steep hill in front of the house? :D

Laverdas rarely allow shortcuts.

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
.. got a steep hill in front of the house?
Click to expand...
Can you lock the steering and hoist up the front of the bike to get it vertical without removing the engine (ratchet strap suspended from a ceiling joist + stabilize the bike from tipping)?
 
Ok thanks for your help.

I have one of those bike lifters that goes under engine, so engine removal was manageable on my own.

The old camchain was tight. If the old chain was THAT tight there's no way I could fit a new one, so didn't bother.

Next job, replacement of gearbox main oil seal. Looks fiddly but it is leaking so needs to be done. Anyone have any tips to make the job easier?

Thanks again

Steve in UK
 
cheapo cam chains on triples have bean problem in the past, but this is much worse on twins, there was "a batch" made out of spec and they are  still floating around, compound that with cheap Chinese chains (may even be branded with known makes) and there is a problem, torqueing the head down with spacers insted of the top cover can help,as can reducing the diameter of the idler wheel between the bores but the main thing is to get a top quality Iwis chain from Andy Forsdick (aka the chain man)
CLEM
 
macavity99 said:
Next job, replacement of gearbox main oil seal. Looks fiddly but it is leaking so needs to be done. Anyone have any tips to make the job easier?
Click to expand...

Steve,

You'll find the edge of the case bore to be quite sharp.  Chamfer/de-burr it or it will tear the new seal to shreds, at least the outside diameter which will cause it to leak as much as the old seal.  Don't drive it in too far.  The outer edges of the cases often do not match, getting the seal in square requires a bit of patience.

Best to split the cases... but that doesn't make things easier either!

piet
 
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