Hole in alternator cover !!

W

woodlawn

New member
Location
CT USA
Hey all,
Have you seen this one before? 300 mi ago I rebuilt the freewheel on my RGS, put it all back together, held the flywheel with a strap wrench and torqued the alternator bolt to the appropriate 52-59 lbs. Riding today, the starter spun, but would not engage. I looked down and there was an 1" plus hole in the cover where the alternator bolt had loosened and ground or blown through.
Obviously I have to replace or weld the cover ( if possible). Any thoughts on why and how to make sure it doesn't happen again?
Thanks
 
yep - have seen several MK1 engines with signs of the nut cutting almost through the cover and 2-3 that have lost the screw already...

as Keith said, Loctite where ever you can. But use the right one for the right application...!!
 
DoC! said:
OK guys. You've got me now.
Just which Loctite do you use?
Keith? Lothar? Paul? Anyone?
Click to expand...

The blue stuff. Blocks nuts nicely and allows them to be undone easily. On regularly dismantled nuts such as exhaust stud, you need to be careful because the stuff tends to accumulate. A bit of wire wool on the threads from time to time cleans them up.
Nylock everywhere else.

Paul
 
DoC! said:
OK guys. You've got me now.
Just which Loctite do you use?
Keith? Lothar? Paul? Anyone?
Click to expand...

There are dozens of 'Loctites' DOC, not just blue(Loctite242) and red(Loctite271). They are usually catagorized by number not colour:

Begins with '2' = Threadlocker
Begins with '5' = Pipe/thread sealant or gasket
Begins with '6' = Retainer (securing assemblies - like a bearing in a housing)
etc. etc.

Here is a small selection of the threadlocker Loctite range: 

242  general purpose removeable grade for fasteners up to 1" diameter. blue. non drip thixotropic viscosity. 
222  low strength for fasteners smaller than 1/4" diameter. purple. non drip thixotripic viscosity. 
262  high strength, chemical resistant, service removable with heat. red. non drip tthixotropic viscosity. this is the heat and handtools to remove stuff. 
271  high strength, permanent locking for fasteners up to 1" dia. red. medium viscosity. 
277  as above for diameters larger than 1". 
290  high strengh, wicking/penetrating to lock and secure assembled fasteners. green, low viscosity. 
220  removable, medium strength, wicking/penetrating to lock and secure assembled fasteners. blue. low viscosity. 
272  high temperature (450 F) high strength, permanent locking. red. high viscosity. 
 
SimonR501 said:
There are dozens of 'Loctites' DOC, not just blue(Loctite242) and red(Loctite271). They are usually catagorized by number not colour:

Begins with '2' = Threadlocker
Begins with '5' = Pipe/thread sealant or gasket
Begins with '6' = Retainer (securing assemblies - like a bearing in a housing)
etc. etc.

Here is a small selection of the threadlocker Loctite range: 

242  general purpose removeable grade for fasteners up to 1" diameter. blue. non drip thixotropic viscosity. 
222  low strength for fasteners smaller than 1/4" diameter. purple. non drip thixotripic viscosity. 
262  high strength, chemical resistant, service removable with heat. red. non drip tthixotropic viscosity. this is the heat and handtools to remove stuff. 
271  high strength, permanent locking for fasteners up to 1" dia. red. medium viscosity. 
277  as above for diameters larger than 1". 
290  high strengh, wicking/penetrating to lock and secure assembled fasteners. green, low viscosity. 
220  removable, medium strength, wicking/penetrating to lock and secure assembled fasteners. blue. low viscosity. 
272  high temperature (450 F) high strength, permanent locking. red. high viscosity. 
 
Click to expand...


Or just buy longer spanners ya wimps :LOL:

                                                      Dave
 
Am I right in thinking that, for everything outside the engine, a Nylock nut will mean that you don't need locktight?
Or do you still use it for those nuts?

Dale
 
Dale said:
Am I right in thinking that, for everything outside the engine, a Nylock nut will mean that you don't need locktight?
Or do you still use it for those nuts?

Dale
Click to expand...

Yes.
If undone a few times, they need to be renewed, the nylon wears and doesn't grip any more.
Paul
 
Dale said:
Am I right in thinking that, for everything outside the engine, a Nylock nut will mean that you don't need locktight?
Or do you still use it for those nuts?

Dale
Click to expand...

Shouldn't need locktite if you drill and lock wire them. :D

                                                            Dave
 
Other than drilling, lockwiring and Loctiting them on you could always weld them on...  8)
 
Grant said:
Other than drilling, lockwiring and Loctiting them on you could always weld them on...  8)
Click to expand...

Yeah and then someone will comment on it not being original eh Grant. :LOL:

                                                                        Dave
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top