Ignitech connector pin

Tree Hugger

Tree Hugger

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I would like to connect my RGS tacho to the Ignitech (pin 15). Can anyone advise what type/size of female connector will slot into the empty hole in the connector block.
Looks like 2mm.

Thanks
David
 
Tree Hugger said:
I would like to connect my RGS tacho to the Ignitech (pin 15). Can anyone advise what type/size of female connector will slot into the empty hole in the connector block.
Looks like 2mm.

Thanks
David
Click to expand...
But to answer your question, the pin is 2,65mm wide, 2,55mm high and 7mm long (total length is 18mm).
 

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Thanks, that's very helpful.
Have located Harwin M20-1180046 which seems smaller than your example. Will give it a try a post reply.

Update: this terminal is too small.
 
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I have a shitload of those female connector inserts left over from various Ignitech installations. Happy to send you a couple. PM me with your address and I'll mail them to you.
 
John: Did you mean to write -(minus) 300V? If so, how do you figure that it's a negative voltage? I'm not disputing it, just interested. I would have guessed that the coil primary would be 12V since pretty much every ignition coil I've come across is connected to a 12V supply, with the other side of the coil switched to ground (or earth or zero V) when the spark is required.

David: Connectors are in the mail. Pertinent to John's comment above (if you're using the original RGS tacho) the Ignitech's tacho output signal is a square wave of 12V amplitude with 50% pulse duration. In other words, it's zero volts for 50% of the time and 12V for the other 50%. The frequency is adjustable in the programming from 1 to 12 pulses per revolution.

A few years ago, I had occasion to set an Ignitech tacho output to 1 pulse per two revolutions (for an electronic tacho on a 4-stroke with camshaft triggered pickups), but you can't set 1/2 pulse per rev in the Ignitech program, so I set it to 1 pulse/rev with a 50% negative correction factor and it worked OK. The maximum correction factor is plus or minus 60%.

I once had an Ignitech unit with a dud tacho output. There was no signal at all when I measured the voltage at Pin 15*. They offered to replace the unit but we used another way to get a signal to the tacho so the owner of the bike declined the offer. The unit worked OK in all other respects.

* The test procedure for the tacho output as described to me by one of the Ignitech tech guys was to simply measure the DC voltage at Pin 15 while the engine was running. It should read the average of around 6V. If you switch the meter to an AC scale it'll probably read the RMS value of about 4.2V. I don't know what it'll read with the ignition on but the engine not running (presumably either 0 or 12V). I also dunno what it'll do if you turn the engine over slowly by hand. I've never tried doing that.
 
Yes Cam, minus with respect to engine 300-350V negative going back emf when the inductive discharge ignition shuts off the current to yield a spark, say 100:1 turns ratio for the ignition coil, a 350V "spike" induces 100 times that primary field collapse and impresses 35,000 volts on the secondary winding. The primary is "charged" with positive 12Vdc, when the current is interrupted the self induced voltage is now negative at the magnetic field is now reversed. Simple, a wry smile here. The modded RGS Tacho i did was 12V input, you can modify a genuine oem tacho by removing the input capy and scaling resistance.

Any owner needs to remove the tacho wire from the ignition coil primary, contemplating a now common 12V tacho drive system. HTH j
** the iis 12V tacho drive was a tachometric stepping from 1Krpm to 10Krpm on self test position F, allowing check of tacho accuracy.
 
I am pretty sure I run my (original) Corsa tach just fine from the Ignitech tach output signal... I will check.

Also, re the Ignitech pins, be advised you need a very particular crimp tool which crimps a tall and very narrow shape (vs the more typical flat and broad open barrel crimp terminal). The receptacle in the plug body is very narrow. You also need goldilocks wire size too, anything too big or with thick wall insulation has trouble fitting. 1sq-mm thin wall automotive wire works really well from memory.
 
Luck of the draw Steve, that it worked, rule book says no, parameter spread on the BAxxx original ic, had you a lucky day. j
 
As an aside, my cheapo Kozo instrument had the tacho readout very unstable from the Ignitech unit. After checking connections it would be ok for a while but always eventually went pox. I fixed it by soldering the wire connection instead of using a plug, the least amount of interference and it was haywire. I have a low opinion of Ignitech plugs and needing a pre-historic computer to get into the thing, but the units work great (Quentin would disagree, with his 3 degree fault).
 
All these ‘inputs’ very useful, thanks.
Will feed back on how it goes.
I am a complete numpty with electrical stuff so if it works it’ll be a miracle. All that techie stuff/lingo went flying right over me heed 🫤
Thanks for sending the connectors Cam, much appreciated.

David
 
Can confirm, using the tach output from the ignitech on two different RGS instrument panels, both worked fine. But I certainly bow to John's superior knowledge and the fact that it perhaps shouldn't. I guess my advantage is not knowing that it shouldn't. A lot of electronics is psychology, if the things know you're afraid of them they get cocky... :D
 
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