Inner fuel tank repair

cape

Hero member
Location
Finland
Has anybody used U.S. STANDARD FUEL TANK SEALER, POR 15 to coat inner fuel tank?

I noticed there is some rust inside the fuel tank. The rust is easily removed with phosphoric acid or the like, but what would be a good (and easy) method to coat it?

tankki2.jpg
 
I used POR 15 on my 180, seemed to work just fine.  Cleaned the tank out properly first, mind.
 
Caswells. Clean the tank first but not too well. Good if you have etoh added to fuel as well.
 
re: rust removal.    I came across this method for cleaning the tank - haven't tried it yet .

http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11784

 
Have a read of some reviews first, eg :- www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4222
 
Never had any problem with the lining in my tank, but there certainly seem to be some who have.  Caswells sounds good.  Got to prep the tank well whatever.
 
I actually spoke to the Caswells sales guy about this and he actually recommended that the tank not be scrupulously cleaned as the epoxy preferred the rougher surface for grip.
 
Can't find it in Finland and since it is hazardous, it's most likely not allowed in air cargo. So, I'm not able to get it!
 
and he actually recommended that the tank not be scrupulously cleaned as the epoxy preferred the rougher surface for grip.

No doubt, but you don't want anything loose in there.
 
tom3c75 said:
I need to remove a previously applied lining from the inside of a tank. 
The lining is breaking up and rust is evident.
What should I use to disolve the lining?

How about petrol  :D

                    Dave
 
Caswell recommends using acetone or lacquer to dissolve the old liner. I had some stuff called Kreem in a BMW tank and acetone along with drywall screws remove it pretty well. Got pretty high from the fumes too! I got pretty much all of it out but didn't worry too much as the Caswell will pot any loose flakes once it is dry. The drywall screws with lots of sharp edges will rough things up so the epoxy has something to key into.
 
I used a product called Slosh.
This was on a newly repainted tank, which sprung a leak on an unseen pinhole, which turned into several pinholes with a bit of scraping.

First I cleaned  the damaged tank area with a die grinder (like a dremel only much bigger and the cutters WAY more expensive) then I pluged the pinholes with "Quicksteel" a chemical metal, next I cleaned the tank internally (twice) by filling it with water laced with De-OxC, this found another tiny pinhole or two, both times the tank was left in a warm place for a week.Then I used the slosh, it is a single can treatment which cures useing the water in the air, so they recomend leaving it a week, I left it three weeks,all is fine, and the paint undamaged.

I have set up a "test" with the empty Slosh can, as when I laid it on its side, the residue of Slosh hardenned, so I half filled it with fuel, punched a pinhoole vent in the lid, wrote the date on the can, and periodically, I look in there to see how the Slosh is doing, changing the fuel each time, so far so good, the fuel has not damaged the Slosh which is the object of the test., but then its only been six months and four fuel changes.
CLEM

 
It seems to  stick to pretty much anything except I think polypropelene. If the surface is rough and the piece doesn't flex too much it would probably be ok.
 
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