Personally I think it's quite tricky to fit the pistons to the rods even when you have plenty of room, ensuring no force is used and getting those circlips in so they are indeed properly in and the end gap away from the gap in the recess, so doing it to pistons half stuck up the barrels must be a nightmare.
installing pistons/rings in triple bores - best practice?
- Thread starter Paul LeClair
- Start date
D
dja981
Guest
nick7 said:
It's almost as hard as aligning two pistons into the bores at the same time and praying you don't break a ring.
Dave
Ernesto
Hero member
- Location
- Hamburg, Germany
No big thing. I've done that often on 750s when I had noone to help me and
before I had a ring tool.
Just be sure you have covered all openings with cloth.
But I admit I haven't tried this on a triple engine.
Ernesto
SandPebbles
Junior member
- Location
- Madison, CT U.S.A.
When I was installing the new circlips, they were proving very troublesome. I compared the new
circlips with the ones that were previously installed. I noticed that while they were the same
overall diameter and thickness (cross sectional area of the wire), the wire circumference of the new
circlips was greater. That is the open space was much less than the old ones. The new ones
also had a black surface color as opposed to the shiny metallic surface of the old ones.
I had purchased the new circlips a few years ago and do not recall their source (although they are not
from Wolfgang).
I know it is prudent to install new circlips whenever they need to be removed, but is there a consensus
on material, supplier, longevity, size and positioning of the circlip?
Keith (U.S.)
circlips with the ones that were previously installed. I noticed that while they were the same
overall diameter and thickness (cross sectional area of the wire), the wire circumference of the new
circlips was greater. That is the open space was much less than the old ones. The new ones
also had a black surface color as opposed to the shiny metallic surface of the old ones.
I had purchased the new circlips a few years ago and do not recall their source (although they are not
from Wolfgang).
I know it is prudent to install new circlips whenever they need to be removed, but is there a consensus
on material, supplier, longevity, size and positioning of the circlip?
Keith (U.S.)
- Location
- Calgary, Alberta, Canada
sfcpiet said:I have a moified H-D/Kent-Moore tool for inserting the circlips. Nice coincidence that H-D circlips have the same diameter as Laverda items, with a bit of practice, makes insertion a doddle, even in a triple.
piet
Something like this...
ah, bloody hell, who knew there was a special tool for this frustrating task......
I just checked there are several varieties of circlip tools, Jims 769, Kent Moore 34623, HD 42317, etc....... a decent tool seems to be significant money though..... as always
Paul LeClair
- Location
- Calgary, Alberta, Canada
SandPebbles said:
Hi Keith
I came to the conclusion years ago that apparently stupid questions are usually not stupid at all, many people just don't want to make a fool of themselves asking..... anyway, as I already know I am a fool, I just go ahead and ask, often with fascinating results.
I don't think there is a consensus on any of this. Engines with a gudgeon/wrist pin that allow the small end of the rod to float on the wrist pin like the Harley Davidson and Laverda engines require the wrist pin itself to be captured in the piston.
Many folks advocate pointing the open up of the circlip directly up, others directly down, some circlips like the stock Asso and Mondial clips have little turned out ends to make them easier to grab, others like the Harley Davidson circlips are flat with no turned out ends, etc., etc.
then there are lots of engines where the rod small ends have to be heated blue hot to expand the, the pins cooled, and everything lined up and pressed together with no margin of error in 2 seconds or less, in which case no circlips are required and the wrist pin is free to float in the piston as the wrist pin itself can't move in the small end of the rod and the rotation relating to the wrist pin occurs in the piston itself as the wrist pin itself can't rotate....
some folks attack the circlips with pliers and screwdrivers, others do it with their fingers, now I learn there are apparently special circlip tools for removal and insertion, and from Piet that HD piston circlips are the same id/od as Laverda piston circlips so HD tools can be used.....