Instrument mounting plate bolt

whitedog

Full member
Afternoon all,

I have managed to shear off one of the four studs that hold the speedo / tacho mounting plate to the handlebars.
About half of the stud is still in the mount. I was going to try a stud extractor and then insert a new one, but dont know whether this method would risk breaking the mounting plate itself. I think the Series 1 jota had a metal plate, but mine (series 2) seems to be plastic.
Grateful for any ideas on what might be the best way around it..

regards

Dave

 
Dave, which model are you talking about?
Early or late 180? 120? (assuming a triple)
I think all 750s used metal mounting plates and most 180s too (not sure what they used when they changed to the CB750F2 plastic instrument console.

Any chance you could post a pic?
 
  Hi Dave, best chance of success is to grip the scraggy end of the broken stud very firmly in a vice and apply a little heat to the clamp in the area of the bust stud then unscrew the clamp from the stud, you may well end up damaging the paint but of all the things that can go wrong removing broken studs from aluminium that is the easyest to fix. If you have access to a mig welder weld a nut onto the bust stud, the heat from the welding is usually enough to free them up and unscrew using the hex. Leave the stud extractor in its box.

  Keith.
 
Give us a picture if possible Dave, I am not sure where you mean, do you mean one of the four studs that go through the top yoke from the Handlebar mounting Clamp Plate?
Point it out on this piccie of a tatty old Mirage!
If it is one of these studs and you cant grip the remains in a vice as Keith suggests, carefully,(and I do mean carefully!) drill a hole down it, Araldite a piece of rod into it and with lots of heat on the alloy part try the same move. With the rod gripped in the vice, gently rocking it to and fro should get the bugger out.
Don't for Gods sake touch it with an extractor, it will splay out the remains of the stud and after firmly jamming it in the hole, snap, that is just going to give you a bigger headache! (remember, the experience of others counts for a million of your own attempts!).
 

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SimonR501 said:
laverdakeith said:
Leave the stud extractor in its box.

   Keith.
I had to laugh Keith,.
Put any 'easy outs' in the same box, the name should be 'hardly ever gets things out'.

More like "Snap off in the fastener you're trying to remove and double your problem"
 
E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit.

Embarassingly, I have used these thing 3 times in my life and each time this has happened, the last time in the remnants of a 6mm bleed nipple in my front right Brembo caliper. I think I have finally learnt the lesson. Oh well, off to the engineering shop to get some milling done  :'(
 
Davo, I did exactly that on the clutch bleed nipple once. Took it to an engineering company that spark eroded it out. Perfect. 10 pounds cash in hand.
 
Hey Grant, thanks heaps. I did a google search for an engineering firm with spark erosion gear and found a company in Perth that looks the goods for any engineering work I will ever need done. BNever would have found them but for that.
 
I also took a new bleed nipple so they could judge the depth accurately and not eat into the casing.
They made a copper electrode in a hex shape like an Allen key and under an oil blanket the copper electrode just eats away into the offending item. Either it comes out on it's own then or they can stick an Allen key in it.
 
ALright gents..
Sorry for delay in getting back to you all.

Sorry guys.  i may have misled you with 'instrument mounting plate' description
You know the plate where your ignition key goes ? Well its that bit..
Took the blighter off the bike and turns out to be aluminium (i think)
Anyway, did as Keith suggested and welded a nut onto the broken remnant of the stud
Heated up the other end for a while and off it came,, Much easier than i had expected.
Thanks for warding me off the stud extractor, im sure things would not have ended so positively
Heat took some of the paint off though, so ended up removing all the paint. And, being a polishing freak,
i will blow the dust off the dremel and see how well it come up.. Many thanks for all help and advice
Till next time.............

Dave
 
When I bought my Jota, the black paint on the handlebar clamp was worn off where keys had been jangling against it. I cleaned it back to bare alloy and had it powder coated black, but the finish was disappointing. It had a few blemishes in it that looked like wee bubbles had come out of the alloy when the powder coat was baked. So I guess the cast alloy is a bit porous.

Had exactly the same pattern of worn off paint with my brother's 3C that I was tidying up on the cheap. So I painted it black with a spray can from the hardware shop. The finish was a lot better than the powder coat, and it will be much easier to touch up when the paint wears off again.

So if you change your mind on the polished finish Dave, don't get it powder coated. Just grab a can of spray enamel.

Cheers,
Cam
 
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