Knock Knock? Where? Primary side. Primary Side Where?

Place a straight edge across the sprockets. Usually the clutch sprocket needs to have shims placed behind it to make it line up with the crank sprocket.
That will dictate where and how many shims you need.
 
Grant are you saying behind the clutch housing?  I did use a straight edge... when clutch housing is pulled towards me the sprockets align, but I can push the housing in about 1mm. So I think I should put a washer behing the housing...
 
There should be a hardened shim washer either side of the needle bearings in the clutch then a circlip. 1mm is exessive movement. The shims are available in two thicknesses as are the shims which fit behind the primary sprocket, a combination of shims under either sprocket will bring the primary drive into line. I don't suppost that was the cause of your knocking.


      Keith
 
Keith

You see I think that washer/spacer that was behing the primary cover should be at the back of the housing... That it why I have that huge movement... The housing is pushing way too far over the plates...

Thanks I will try that tomorrow night..

 
Scorch,

Check the clutch hub on the shaft, should be a firm sliding fit with no radial play and little or no axial movement.  The hub has a cast-in steel splined centre, check that this is still tight in the casting.

If the hub wobbles unduly on the shaft, I machine a groove on the rear and fit an O-ring as per the 750 models, quietens things down you'd think you just fitted completely new components!  The O-ring holds the hub under a bit of pressure against the mainshaft bearing and prevents it from clattering around.  The fix lasts a couple of years till the O-ring hardens, but the primary chain usually needs replacing long before that, so the O-ring can be renewed as a matter of course, while you're at it :D.

HTH,
piet
 
Hi Piet

I did assemble everything last night with the washer/spacer in the right place. There are now no movements and everything fits nice and align up right. Now I am almost sure that this was the problem from the start. When the hub/housing was moving on the shaft it forced the chain to hit the pump sprocket. I have not started the bike yet, but will do so over the weekend and take it for a run. I`m sure this was the problem... I will let you know.

cheers
 
Andy,

"A couple of years" of Laverda ownership means a great deal more miles than with most other classics! :D 

While most Ducatis or MVs et al are repaired/fettled/polished, Lavs are ridden and, consequently, wear themselves out.  The factory specified a 35000km change interval for the primary chains, used to be 18 months for me when I had just the one!

piet
 
With the weight and pin flex of the triplex I would tend to agree with the factory.

I would expect the Merc duplex to out perform it tho. However with the comparitive low cost and seemingly regularity of Laverda strip downs it does make sense to change regularly for peace of mind.

There must be some higher mileage bikes who first tested the Merc chain some 2-3 years ago. Any of you have any feedback poss or neg?

Andy


 
Don't have enough miles on the Merc chain to suggest replacement intervals..I can say that the Merc chain made the primary drive much less noisy than the triplex chain..nice quite chain-gear sounds rather than the clunky-clunky sounds. Probably due to the lighter weight. May be why the factory went to twin simplex chains from a triplex..reduce the primary noise for the many regulatory overseers?
overseer_b.jpg
 
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