Late 180 Clutch Disassembly to fix sticky clutch

Ian, that free oil was a good few years ago (might be 25) I am not sure if I would do it or not right now, but I dont have to cross that bridge, we got out some old photos at home the other night and my lads pointed out that TOG looks a lot better now than when she was only three years old and doing 20,000 miles per year,I might not have been so atatched in those days, propper ratty she looks in the pics with my 4 year old son (who is now 29),what you dont know is that I am a natural tight arse, and time and time again this bites me back in the face, slow learner? well maybe, but free oil and good quality diesel/detergent oil was too much too leave for the gypo's.I still use cheap oil, 20/50 from Unipart which has all the wizzy US mil specs and UK stuff printed on it as well.I dont go with "motorcycle specific" after a techo for Total told me that the bike stuff is 100% identical to the car stuff at half the money.
CLEM
 
No issues there Clem.. top 'em up and give 'em a caning is my motto too... just couldn't resist the chance at a craik.. good running to you mate.
Sorry I'll miss the Baskerville gig this year, so might as well have a go.. :P
8)
 
you might recall Ian at Baskerville Hall that TOG was a bit incontinet and was wearing a geen paper nappy under her alternator cover because she was losing some of her engine oil,
stay at home because of a wet right boot?
miss the international?
is there a GOD,could be, but there is definately a TOG and she arrived!
CLEM

ps that oil leak was mystery to solve, I replaced the oil seal, no dice, then I replaced the bearing and the seal, still no dice, then I replaced the sleeve nut, the alternator case, and a new bearing and seal (again) this time it worked, I still do not know why.
 
The Type of Oil does affect the way Laverda Clutches behave. I believe you should avoid types with excess amount of Synthetics in them. Usually the Clutch Plates will chatter and slip & perhaps stick as in the manner you describe.  I have been successful with servicing sticking Clutch Disks in Harleys, providing there not worn out, by cleaning the Disks with Varsol then Heating them carefully on both sides (Not staying in one position as not to warp them) with a Propane Torch until the oil smokes & evaporates off (You might have to perform the procedure 2 or 3 times to completely rid the Oil) then lightly scuff with a Medium Grit Sandpaper. This may be worth a try in your case.
 
Steve G. said:
LaverdaIan said:
Lothar, can't believe you advised reversing the actuation bar, particularly if it has a well worn hole. It is now weakened and turning it will assist in it bending under load. It is a simple piece of 6mm bar, easily bought and cut to size. Replace it Steve if in any doubt.
We know, just ask PFC...
Ciao
Ian
Click to expand...

 I got one of those from Wolfgang as well. Thanks for pointing it out.

 Steve
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Ian,

if it is well worn beyond a usabable point (i.g.: if enough metal has been removed to weaken it so it will bend or brake soone), sure, replace it. If there is just a little "run-in" of the rod (a mm or so), 90? turning it is a common method to re-use it for the next 50.000Km or more.
 
I had clutch slip when I used Mobil  car oil, fully synth.
Needed to dismantle the clutch and clean the plates (not myself) in alcohol. Hasn't slipped since and that was at least 10 years back.

Ciao
Paul
 
I have been using mobil 1 20/50 Twin(designed for Harleys I guess) oil in my 82 mirage. The motor sat for over 25 years before I got it going. So far I have rode over 7,000KM without a clutch issue
 
  Got the bike together Tuesday afternoon. Spotted many things while doing this. the pictures kindly added to this thread have confirmed to me that the cush rubbers had been installed backwards since before I got the bike. So new rubbers, new IWIS chains thanks to Andy a while ago, new Surflex clutch complete. At Wolfgang's thoughts, the tiny spring more or less attaching the two last friction plates has been left out, and the 6mm/6mm/35mm steel bar has been turned 90 degrees, since the round pushrod had put a 2mm indent in the bar.
Fresh oil [Castrol 20w50], and carefully depressed the shifter, only was met with a nice firm 'clunk' as it went into 1st. A revelation!! Went around the block, and quickly found a noticable difference in the gearbox with fresh cush drives installed correctly.
She's all back and burbling happy. Wolfgang did say the only reason the tiny spring was installed was to quieten the clutch, and I do hear a bit of rattling at idle without the clutch lever depressed. No worries.
  I truly dislike disabled and disassembled bikes in my garage,,,all my bikes are within 15 minutes of rolling out the door under their power, and to have perhaps my most reliable bike [the R100gs may have an argument] sitting with it's entrails exposed to the elements was most unsettling.
Many thanks for the great advice. The knowledge found here is for sure the reason I am a member of this forum.

  steve
 
mar said:
I have been using mobil 1 20/50 Twin(designed for Harleys I guess) oil in my 82 mirage. The motor sat for over 25 years before I got it going. So far I have rode over 7,000KM without a clutch issue
Click to expand...

I had new clutch plates in there, not OEM, so plate lining material obviously has an influence.
Ciao
Paul
 
Steve you nailed it for me when you said you don't like having bikes (in my case any of my toys...snowmobiles, boats, bikes, restored cars) that are not ready to roll. It gives me an uneasy unsettled feeling. If I have chosen to do a project and the vehicle is apart then that's a different matter, but when a problem occurs  I like to get it addressed asap. Maybe here where I am in Canada the summers and riding season are short so we don't want to loose any potential to enjoy them. Winters are long so we have time to work on summer use vehicles, but can't test ride them until summer again. Maybe I'm just old and don't want to forget where the parts go. 
 
laverdaskidoo said:
Steve you nailed it for me when you said you don't like having bikes (in my case any of my toys...snowmobiles, boats, bikes, restored cars) that are not ready to roll. It gives me an uneasy unsettled feeling. If I have chosen to do a project and the vehicle is apart then that's a different matter, but when a problem occurs  I like to get it addressed asap. Maybe here where I am in Canada the summers and riding season are short so we don't want to loose any potential to enjoy them. Winters are long so we have time to work on summer use vehicles, but can't test ride them until summer again. Maybe I'm just old and don't want to forget where the parts go. 
Click to expand...

  I know what you are saying about the limited riding season, out on the west coast [Vancouver], you can ride all year if you are commited, but the salt & crap that they use out here does not inspire me to ride a bike that would surely suffer cosmetically. Add the absolutely horrible car driver and the limited daylight in winter, means riding to and from work ALWAYS means riding in the dark and wet. No fun.

  Steve
 
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