Loose in the Rear.

I added up Greg's prices, app $10 a bearing at 4 off, its $50 or so. I had a rear wheel bearing that was a bit lose in a Triumph so I glued it in with a Loctite product, it lasted till I was on top of Brown Mountain. An appropriate name, I in hindsight felt it come loose. Approx 300ks later around Lakes entrance the bike started weaving and the smoke appeared at the rear wheel. I made it to a bike shop where I pulled it apart and found a massive hole where the bearing fitted. For the last 50ks, it was using the rear drum brake as a wheel bearing.  was 1000ks from home so I caught the train to Melbourne and bought a second-hand wheel. Made it home on that.
 
So I finally pulled my finger out and went at this. Interesting development. I always stick a finger in the bearings when a Tyre goes on and they always spin nice. And they did today as well BUT I also noticed the couch drive side wheel bearing was loose in the hub, O dear. The other side was fine, nice and snug. Plus I didnt have a big enough socket to drive the new ones in, so off I go trying to track down a Unicorn called bearing retainer. After failing at 2 usually reasonable parts shops I finally bought some Hernon 842 and after it cures hopefully in 24hrs and will fix this. The last time I did this the bearing adhesive failed in my old Bonnie right at the top of Brown Mountain, I felt it lock the wheel momentarily and brake free. Two hours later this spinning bearing had eaten a 70mm hole in the hub where the bearing should have been.
What got my attention other than the wheel wiggling all over was the smoke pouring off the hub, the rear drum was acting as a wheel bearing. Will finish this tomorrow after the bearing retainer cures a bit, I gave the hub and outer of the bearing a good clean with contact cleaner. So hopefully this will take out the play the wheel as showing.
 
The 125 Honda my son started riding on, and never got sold so I commute on it, had a rear wheel bearing loose in the hub, the one on the brake drum side. I tried a couple of bearing retainer products and none stood the test of time. In the end I used a shim of coke can aluminium around the bearing, a firm fit, and nothing to lose I reasoned. It has been there for a couple of years now.
 
Very scientific, I have used Mr Coke behind door hinges when cardboard was to thick. Years ago I did a Maz 35mm disc brake conversion to that same Bonnie and I couldn't find tapered steering head bearing to fit the frame, the stem was fine. In the end, I had the outside of the tapered race Hard Chromed and ground to size. They added 3mm to its radius and it worked a treat. Cannot see that working on a sealed roller. The standard loose bearing just pushes in, no interference. Bearly a mm in it but I bet its magnified at the rim to 3 and a bit mm over that distance producing the play I can detect.
 
Vince, I mentioned in a previous post that the drum side of my SF wire rear wheel did the same thing, the bearing falling out, the housing spread. I had the outer part of the housing machined and a steel ring made that fitted tightly around the bearing housing. never came loose after many thousands of km. probably still working for whoever i sold or gave that wheel to when I converted to triple discs.

It wasn't an expensive fix, but you need an engineering shop that can turn your complete rear wheel.
 
Piranha Brother 2 said:
... but you need an engineering shop that can turn your complete rear wheel.
Click to expand...

If you cut through the mag wheel spokes and remove the outer part of the wheel so you're only left with the hub, you can do the bearing fix in a smaller lathe.  ;)
 
I buttoned it up this morning, the wheel went in very easily for a change. The last few times turned into a full-blown wrestle. The play is gone, we have a ride on Sunday and I will check it after this ride to see if it loosens up. My custom made rear shock springs haven't turned up yet so more work on the rear to come.
 
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