lower Stearing head bearing removal

Grant said:
The problem is positive location of the 'fingers' of the puller behind the swing arm bearing, not the arms.

I did try an alternative method once, worked well, but I'm fucked if I can remember how I did it..............  :-\

One of these suckers works just fine. Slide hammer and correct size blind bearing puller :- http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/332070704394
 
I was at a point where I was about to buy me some tools. However, I found several good info how to do it without, which safes something like 100? for tools that I probably only need 1 - 2 times in my life and which else just collect dust on the shelve...

BTW: another good hint from a german guy: applying a welding-spot (or line...) on the remaining bearing part heats it up just on that side and makes it "grow" enough to release from its seat. Haven't tried this, but sounds logical to me. Unfortunately, this would be a 600? tool to buy...  ::)
 
I was told that it "grows" the ring so much that it virtually falls off by itself...

Method though was mainly recommended for the seat of the bearing inside the headstock. In that case, you need to wait until it cools down completely, then it will fall off...

No experiance with both methodes as I do not have a welder.

cheers


Lothar
 
OK. A weld will heat up the parent metal and expand it initially, but as the molten weld pool cools and solidifies, it contracts. So it shrinks the metal that it's attached to. One of the things that welders need to be aware of is the distortion that welds induce into a joint due to shrinkage of the weld pool.

Shrinking is a good thing if you want to remove the outer bearing race that fits inside the headstock. Running a bead of weld around the inside of the race will shrink it when the weld cools, and it will be easier to pull out. It may even become loose enough to have no interference fit.

It won't work on a bearing inner race that is on a shaft like the steering stem in the bottom triple clamp. Shrinking that bearing race is the last thing you want to do!
 
This is how I solved it when I changed the bearings last time. I did the other parts using my lathe.

There is a aluminium spacer on the upper end.
The drawbars are made of 10mm round bar, there is M10 thread on the upper ends,
lower ends have 3/8" UNC threads that fits to the tool.
 

Attachments

  • 18082016196 Ohjauslaakerin ulosveto_70.JPG
    18082016196 Ohjauslaakerin ulosveto_70.JPG
    130 KB · Views: 22
Back
Top