Cosi
Hero member
- Location
- Kingscliff
I only use that in the lovely S Piet, fucking expensive here
The 3000 is for the RGS
The 3000 is for the RGS
Mineral or multigrade?
- Thread starter gibbo-123
- Start date
Rusty Spokes
Hero member
- Location
- Decatur, Ga. USA
For those here in the USA.. Brad Penn. The same refinery that made the Kendall GT1 lubricants back in the 70's and 80's. Very stout additive package in their motorcycle oils with strong endorsements. Not too pricey and great stuff.
See the site...
http://www.bradpennracing.com/Products/Motor-Oils/SAE-20W50.aspx
See the site...
http://www.bradpennracing.com/Products/Motor-Oils/SAE-20W50.aspx
Tippie
Hero member
- Location
- Dr?bak, Norway
Laverda SF. Our cam followers are truly a weak point. I got onto Delvac 1200 40wt and it kept them healthy. I had a meeting with a Mobil oil technician at Mobil Oz headquarters (a big deal for me) and he recommended that over all their multi-grades. It was better in every way. This was at the time that they were about to release their bike specific synthetic which he recommended I go over to. And that is what I have used for the last 20 years, Mobil 1 4T Racing. Engine has been perfect, cam followers, slingers, clutch, the lot, both road and racing. Most people here hate synthetic though.
With my cam followers I destroyed 3 cam/follower sets in 18mths (started test riding Jap bikes as a result). In the end I found out that the centre studs were being held tight against the oil channel on top of the head, blocking it. In fact with a 1mm wire down there to keep the stud back I could not fit the top cover. The cover had been removed twice before that but was not deformed. I opened the stud holes a bit and have run with a piece of wire to keep the studs away ever since, even on customer bikes, to remove the risk. I also polish up the faces on the cam and followers any time I have them out.
With my cam followers I destroyed 3 cam/follower sets in 18mths (started test riding Jap bikes as a result). In the end I found out that the centre studs were being held tight against the oil channel on top of the head, blocking it. In fact with a 1mm wire down there to keep the stud back I could not fit the top cover. The cover had been removed twice before that but was not deformed. I opened the stud holes a bit and have run with a piece of wire to keep the studs away ever since, even on customer bikes, to remove the risk. I also polish up the faces on the cam and followers any time I have them out.
Cosi said:
It's not exactly a bargain here either, Cosi. Something like ?13/litre.
But I guess if it keeps the grenades from going off, it's money well spent!
Tippie,
Been using synthetic 10W60 in the 3C for the past 20 years without issues. All others get regular 20W50 for normal road use.
piet