Montjuic gear selector

LaverdaIan

LaverdaIan

Hero member
Can anyone post a photo of the position of the selector drum/selector arm in situ when the bike is in neutral please. Yea I know, means clutch basket removal etc. but I just wondered if someone might have one apart at this time.
Thanks

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Ian,
It should be easy to establish where neutral is. The selector quadrant can only fit onto the end of the selector drum in one way. It's located with two drive pins. When the mainshaft  [the one the clutch is bolted to] will spin independently of the countershaft [the one with the final drive sprocket which pokes out of the right hand side] you know you're in neutral .
At this point, one of the spring loaded arms which form the positive stop arrangement should sit in an indentation in the rim of selector quadrant. sadly, I can't remember which side of the quadrant drum the neutral indentation sits in. My bikes have Atlas selectors and they differ slightly from the 500. I think on the 500 it's the middle of the three detents on the outer rim of the quadrant.
Confused? You will be....
Bob
 
Thanks Bob, that helps. I'm a bit stuck because I've built the motor, but now find that the actuator arm spring has failed, and selection is not happening across the whole range of gears. Replacement arm on the way, but I want to ensure that the drum was in the right place when I put the gears back in the lower case.
Due for a test day next Thursday..
Ya Gotta Love Ya Racing.. ;)

8)
 
Ian,
Selector set up on the 500 is similar to the triples. I find if you put the bike in 4th the clearance of the spring on the eccentric can be set with a feeler gauge and is far easier than trying to gauge the distance of travel when the selector is in neutral. It's well worth spending some time on this. Apart from the brakes , I reckon a decent gear change one of  the most important things on a race bike.

With the bike on a paddock stand you should be able to select all six gears with ease.After setting the selector I usually put the clutch basket on hand tight and install the plates with just a couple of clutch springs and then fit the primary case with 3 or 4 fasteners and check it will run through the gears easily. Once I'm happy I'll strip it and bolt it all up properly.The extra 15 mins spent doing this is a lot less hassle than removing a fully bolted up primary case and clutch basket.

Whilst that clutch basket is off you might want to get a file out and clean it up, it can make  all the difference to a dragging clutch. The pic shows my Atlas clutch basket , which is made of monkey metal. 500s have better quality metallurgy but they can still wear and can cause the plates to hang in mid air and cause drag when the clutch is disengaged.

DSC_5551_zps38be88b9.jpg
 
Hey, thanks all for your valuable contributions.. ;)

Bob, got to the bottom of it. Seems the drum was binding up between 3/4, but having taken it apart, setting the drum in the neutral position and resetting the shafts and selector forks all is good.. bit of an adjustment also in the selector arm, including a new one with operative return spring (thanks Red) (not the main one, the little sucker that holds the selector arm up above the drum pins), and all fired up tonight and in good order for a test next weekend..

Ya Fuc*n Gotta Love Ya Racing... ;)

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