ND coils: replacing the plug wires?

beauchemin

beauchemin

Senior member
Location
Victoria, British Columbia
I can see what appears to be a bead of glue around the wires where they enter the coil body.  Is it straightforward to replace the wires?  I'm assuming I just need to remove the bead of glue and the wires will simply unscrew or pull out?
 
I would leave well alone if its not necessary,I followed a thread on here with a substitute sealant,which didn"hold and the leads don"t screw on,just a sharp pin and the fixing is never as good,I ended up replacing mine for more originals.

Just my experience,others may have had better success.

Lem
 
I'm with Lem....made a hash of mine, naturally! Have some modern dyna coils now fitted by Mr Nairn when the whole ignition was replaced some time ago.
 
It's a piece of cake, at least mine were. Cut away as much of the hard glue as possble, without cutting into the lead, get a thin probe and try to separate the lead from coil body as much as possible, then pull like buggery. Find the proper diameter replacement lead - they are on the large side (?8 from memory?), for a close fit into the coil body. Use some electrical silicon (non acetic acid leeching) gunk to fix the new leads in. It was sucessfull for me. Though I did later change to TEK anyway. Dont use carbon leads - too fragile. HTH
 
Replaced the leads and still running OK. I cut the leads at the coil and then carefully drilled out the old leads and replaced with the new ones using epoxy resin.
 
John Wilson's (IIS) instructions:

Replacing HT cables on Nippon Denso Coils
(pinky-biege colour, stamped 028700.)

First, carefully remove the epoxy resin around the HT cable entry point on the body of the ND coil.  You can do this, for example, by using small side cutters.  Take care not to damage the body plastic.

There are two parts to the HT lead:
? the inner HT lead/copper wire with insulation cover
? an outside thin sheath.

Pull hard on the HT lead until it comes out of the coil body. This will leave the outer sheath still inside the coil body. Break this bond by carefully pushing a screw driver down between the sleeve and inner bore of the tube until you feel the remaining epoxy, then continue working around the sleeve until it frees from the bore.

There is a standard spike termination at the end of the bore.  Insert a good quality copper core HT lead of 7mm diameter (8mm will not fit) into the bore (tube) until is stops.  Then secure the new lead to the ignition coil body using a good quality silicon sealant or epoxy. 

Do not use building grade silicon as it cures by liberation of acetic acid which attacks copper components.  Instead, use a neutral cure silicon such as 738RTV.  You can find it at the local electrical wholesalers; similar products are becoming more available from hardware stores. 

Once done, terminate the HT leads using NGK spark plug covers with 5.0K ohm suppression resistor for clean firing of the spark plugs.

IIS information sheet.
updated 5th January 2004
 
Replaced the HT leads on my coils several years ago using John's instructions. Never missed a beat.
When rebuilding the Motodd I replaced them with TEC coils compliments of Cosi, did I say what a top bloke that Cosi is! :D.
 
So of course it can be done, but requires some skill,Paul is being modest, and you need to get the right size and type leads and silicone too it seems, and then most folk replace the lot later anyway... ;)
 
east peasy, but not how I do it
try this method

first with a junior hacksaw cut the lead off right at the face of the coil plastic body and flush with it, then using a cordless drill and a 3mm HSS bit, carefully drill down the side of the cable conductor and into the cable insulation, when you have done a few holes around the periphery, start to wang the drill about a little and try to join up the holes, be careful to drill only the cable insulation, and not the coil body, di this by feel. when you have all but destroyed the insulation, use a pair of tweezers to pick out the debris, and then a sharp point (maybe the tang of a chain saw file) to clean the hole, there will be a spike in the centre, get your new cable and make an entry into the cut end for the spike using some sort of pointed instrument, then coat the outside of the cable end with mixed Araldite, and install it, the spike must contact the cable conductor, wait a good while for the adhesive to set, job done,
CLEM
 
My problem was the silicon John states,never hardened properly,but then I m a lemon :D
 
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