Neutral switch

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lemonjelly

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I am about to change my neutral switch on the RGA Sprint,can anyone tell me if I can just unscrew the old one and fit,without upsetting the hydraulic clutch or will it have to be bled.

Cheers Shaun
 
Shaun,

Would have thought you would get away without bleeding the clutch when removing the slave cylinder casing (I do on my Series II 180 Jota). Don't operate the clutch lever while it's off though. Not being an RGS owner don't know if you need to drain the engine oil or lean her over a long way ?

Keith
 
If it is the same as the series 2 180 Shaun, it's underneath and you will need to drain the oil, (possibly shift the collector box as well (if I remember correctly, it's a while since I looked under the motor on the Mirage as it's sitting on a shelf!)
 
  Remove the sprocket cover and the switch is there in the clean area under the sprocket (where the selector mechanism was on the earlier motors). This area is "dry" on an RG motor, no oil will fall out, put the bike on the sidestand when removing the switch, be prepared to fiddle about with a few shims to get the switch working nice and not binding on the detent on the drum.


   Keith
 
Cheers guys yes have had the cover off Keith just wanted to make sure this was a dry area when unscrewing the old one off.

Much obliged.

Shaun
 
motoddrob said:
And talking about neutral switches, mine leaks oil, 180 series1. Never had one apart so what do I need to fix the leak?
Click to expand...

Rob,

Can't take it apart to begin with...

Smear a little silicon sealant around where the plastic part protrudes from the metal body.  Usually works.

If it's a consolation, they all leak eventually, not only the 180s :D!

piet
 
Hey Rob, Motalia has at least 1 left in stock http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Laverda-Neutral-Switch-/160596065325?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2564457c2d#ht_500wt_1156
 
Hey Davo, thanks for that link, now I know what they look like. I'm too tight to buy a new one until I have ago fixing mine!!
How the fuck do you get them out?!! looks like I'll be grinding a taper on one of my 17mm sockets.
The ally case looks to have bevel at the base of the hole, it's stopping my socket from fitting on the hex fully.
 
All fitted no leaks just like a spark plug really nice shiny light again,

Cheers Shaun
 
Not yet monsieur Lemon. Dent to be removed from fuel tank and then green paint and pinnies. Red apparently has to earn money before fixing my crappy lump so maybe summer Oz time she will hit the Frog.
 
motoddrob said:
Hey Davo, thanks for that link, now I know what they look like. I'm too tight to buy a new one until I have ago fixing mine!!
How the fuck do you get them out?!! looks like I'll be grinding a taper on one of my 17mm sockets.
The ally case looks to have bevel at the base of the hole, it's stopping my socket from fitting on the hex fully.
Click to expand...

Rob,

3/8" drive sockets normally work well, they're a bit slimmer than the widespread 1/2" types.

piet
 
Piet, I got the sucker out, just ground a taper on the end of a 17mm socket. So I take it they leak via the brass threaded wire connecter then.
So just smear silicon around the base of the insulator then??
Cheers
 
motoddrob said:
Piet, I got the sucker out, just ground a taper on the end of a 17mm socket. So I take it they leak via the brass threaded wire connecter then.
So just smear silicon around the base of the insulator then??
Cheers
Click to expand...

Rob,

The insulator part is pressed into the body and the edge of the body is folded over the insulator.  That's where the suckers leak... 

piet
 
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