Hi there I have just spent two years building a 3cl 1000 'it has hi com pistons a large valve head but standard cams.the problems I have are 1 my charge light won't go out when running engine in the shed 'and 2 bike will start easy but only run on all 3 when on choke 'off choke only on 1&2 pots I have replaced jets and all passages are clean.if I blast the plugs clean then it will run on 3 for a little while then cut out on number 3 again.also even from warm it won't start without choke.I'm checking things that I have already checked so need some advice .thank you. paul..
new build problems.
- Thread starter bakerslav
- Start date
- Location
- Calgary, Alberta, Canada
ludiluka said:
on 180 triples, only two coils.
-One coil with single plug wire, to the center cylinder.
-2nd coil, with two plug wires, to cylinders one and three.
old saying, 90% of carb problems are electrical, so switch the plug wire from cylinder 3 to cylinder 1, and vice versa. If problem switches cylinders, you have a bad spark plug cap or plug wire.
if problem persists on same cylinder, look to the carbs
-vacuum leak on intake cylinder number 3?
-choke plunger not adjusted properly? Has to "seat" deep enough on the adjuster to close off the opening in the bottom of the hole when choke closed. How are the rubber choke plunger tips?
-basic carb setup?
-about a 55 - 60 pilot jet. On what you are describing, go to at least a set of 60's, 55's may be too small, 50's definitely way too small. 65's are usually stinky rich, but some bikes like them.
-Idle mixture screw? - rubber O ring in place with steel washer behind? Initial setting one and one half turns out from fully seated. -New needles, K1, middle notch, needle jet AB 265.
-Basic mechanical synchronization of the three slides, as close as possible to the same heights?
-Float level set properly and the same on all three carbs?
-Main jets irrelevant to your issue, but ultimately you will likely wind up around 118 - 130 range, although 130 will likely be too rich.
also, not to be a smart ass, but do pop the valve cover off and check the valve clearances on cylinder 3, make sure you have correct clearances.
for the charging light, once you get the bike to idle, put a voltmeter on the battery pos and neg and read the voltage. Turn the headlight off. At idle you would hope to see at least 12.5 volts, hopefully more. Then rev the bike to say 3,500 rpm while watching the voltage and the charge light. By 3,500 rpm you should be getting at least 13.75 volts and the charge light should have gone out. If not, you have an issue with charging coil, if you still have original stock weak charging system, or possibly also with regulator/rectifier if your bike was late enough in production to have a rec/reg? Bottom line, you need to put a voltmeter on the bike while it is running to determine if you have adequate charging. If the bike is charging correctly, for fun turn the headlight on while voltmeter still hooked up, watch how much voltage drops, the old charging systems can barely run the headlight.......
Paul LeClair
G
Grant
Guest
Have you tried new plugs?
Could just be a duff plug.
I would think it should still run even with low compression on one piston, albeit not very well.
You say you have spent 2 years building it. Did you fit new pistons or rings? Get the barrels rebored or honed?
Are the valve clearances in spec?
If it is freshly built I would hope these matters were sorted as you went.
Is it still running original electrics? CDI or BTZ?
Make sure all the wires from the alternator that join in the connector block at the base of the tank are in the right order and that there is a good connection. It is too easy to screw down on to the insulation there or to feed a wire into the wrong connector. Are these wires in good order or are they oxidised?
How did you make sure all the passages in the carbs were clean?
Could just be a duff plug.
I would think it should still run even with low compression on one piston, albeit not very well.
You say you have spent 2 years building it. Did you fit new pistons or rings? Get the barrels rebored or honed?
Are the valve clearances in spec?
If it is freshly built I would hope these matters were sorted as you went.
Is it still running original electrics? CDI or BTZ?
Make sure all the wires from the alternator that join in the connector block at the base of the tank are in the right order and that there is a good connection. It is too easy to screw down on to the insulation there or to feed a wire into the wrong connector. Are these wires in good order or are they oxidised?
How did you make sure all the passages in the carbs were clean?
Is #3 plug fouling? If #3 is running rich you could have low compression due to cyl walls washed down w/ gas (petrol, happy?). Put a generous teaspoon of oil in #3 & recheck compression. Probably in carb. Are you running a stock charging system? Upgrade to a Redax ignition/alternator kit, well worth the $$ (??). Post pics when able.
Hi yes a stock charging system a,150,watt btz system.all parts bought from reliable sellers. I have had all 3 pots running which are a,little rich but now ,number 3 won't run off joke and looks dry.I have swiped carb bodies for a spare one and swopped internally with another carb but prob still remains.cheers paul.
G
Grant
Guest
HAVE . YOU . TRIED . NEW . SPARK . PLUGS ??
Tippie
Hero member
- Location
- Dr?bak, Norway
Or an oversupply of air as Paul suggested.IAG said:
Isn?t it also possible to spray the start-gas around any possible air leak areas?
That is very low comp on the one cylinder compared to the others and could well point to something, did it go up to 160 like the other cylinders?
Does it not run on that cylinder at any revs with any throttle opening or is it just at idle/down low?
first thing you need to do is work out why you only have 115 psi in No 3 cylinder when the other 2 are at 160 psi, would not bother about anything else until you work out why No 3 is down, sounds like a valve issue to me
you say you have a big valve head so I presume you bought new valves and had them fitted ?
what valves did you use, stainless steel ?
if they are stainless did you change out the cast iron valve guides to bronze alloy ? (stainless valves can nip up in cast iron guides)
what valve head diameters have you got installed now, larger then 41.0mm ? (large valves in a 1000 bore can clip the edge of the liner spigot)
have you rechecked the cam timing with engine at TDC, if you are a tooth out you can tangle the valves and bend them quite easily.
do you know someone that owns a Leak Down Tester, that is what you need to work out where the issue is with No 3
sort your compression first, than start chasing running issues
you say you have a big valve head so I presume you bought new valves and had them fitted ?
what valves did you use, stainless steel ?
if they are stainless did you change out the cast iron valve guides to bronze alloy ? (stainless valves can nip up in cast iron guides)
what valve head diameters have you got installed now, larger then 41.0mm ? (large valves in a 1000 bore can clip the edge of the liner spigot)
have you rechecked the cam timing with engine at TDC, if you are a tooth out you can tangle the valves and bend them quite easily.
do you know someone that owns a Leak Down Tester, that is what you need to work out where the issue is with No 3
sort your compression first, than start chasing running issues