redfox
Hero member
Thanks Ren?, but I think the others on here are way more experienced than me.
Batteries. I have had a brand new Varta 30 Ah liquid battery (ordinary one), and it starts fine, but it's true about a bit higher voltage. I does make a difference. Of course the cranking amperage does it too. But a high voltage or fresh battery, makes the starting immediately.
Then I have a Tecno glass matt battery.Very good, half size and better cranking too. Saves a lot of weight as well.
Then I have a tiny Shorai LiFe 18 Ah battery. By far the best.
- Spark plugs. No, I have never had any trouble on too hot combustion. I think that most dealers and probably also someone on here would say B8es. Anyway the SFC1000 (and RGS Corsa) have forged pistons, which can withstand more heat etc. Almost everyone I know use B8ES.
- Enhanced combustion. I have also used some sets of BP8ES, which have a slightly protruding middle electrode. Better ignition of the fuel mixture.
- Optimum position of electrodes. If you are serious about it, use many spark plugs and mark them with a felt tip pen, so you know exactly where the middle electrode is pointing, when tightened Down, and then choose a set that gives the best position of those middle electrodes, in relation to the inlet.
- Heat grade on plugs. Correct me if I am wrong, but I seem to remember, that NGK's and Champions heatscale are opposite to each other.
- The high voltage cables. From the coils to the spark plugs, can corrode or come Loose. Turn them securely Down, and every few years cut a Little bit off. Yes, then are glued to the coils, bit can be renewed.
Also measure internal resistance (Ohm) on each spark plug socket.
- Starter relay. The starter relay can be sticking, and therefore not working or intermittenly working. There should be two clicks. One when it engages, and one when it disengages (letting go of the starter button).
- Starter. Can be old and fine looking, but if you take it apart the coomutator can be Black and filled with sod. Clean it up and reassemble, or eventually mill it Down a timy bit. Inspect coals and eventually renew, if they are real short.
- Switch gear. It is also worth noting, that the Nippon Denso switch gear on the RGS series are somewhat vague, as they can burn Down, or just become Black and non. or less-conductive inside. They have some small copper leads and springs inside, that are too small for the amperage. It is worth taking them apart, and clean them with for example electrical contact cleaner once a year. Real easy and prolongs their life.
- Light relays. Another real benefit would be to install two light relays, so that the existing light wires is feeding the relay switching on low and high beam, and the extra (4'th) unused fuse in the fuse bos, can be connected to the battery, and give direct power to the headlight/light.
Thereby saving the left side switch gear and the ignition switch too.
- Earth wire (minus). Finally the earth wire from the starter have to be looked at, as it can be real bad after all these years. It may look nice, but upon cutting up the Black insulation, it may have turned green, Black, corroded. Make up a new one.
- Battery poles. Also, keep the plus and minus on the battery perfectly clean, and smear a Little dab of silione grease on the "+" and "-". Prevents a voltage drop and a broken starter gear by preventing a backlash, so adds up to a better start. Use a bit of fine sand paper to keep surface of poles and cable connectors real clean.
I've only had Laverda for 22 years, and never had a starting problem, so I am new to this.
There are many other Things that potentially can go wrong, but we haven't determined all of these aforementioned Things yet. So JohnL will have to try them all out first.
Cheers,
Jacques.
Batteries. I have had a brand new Varta 30 Ah liquid battery (ordinary one), and it starts fine, but it's true about a bit higher voltage. I does make a difference. Of course the cranking amperage does it too. But a high voltage or fresh battery, makes the starting immediately.
Then I have a Tecno glass matt battery.Very good, half size and better cranking too. Saves a lot of weight as well.
Then I have a tiny Shorai LiFe 18 Ah battery. By far the best.
- Spark plugs. No, I have never had any trouble on too hot combustion. I think that most dealers and probably also someone on here would say B8es. Anyway the SFC1000 (and RGS Corsa) have forged pistons, which can withstand more heat etc. Almost everyone I know use B8ES.
- Enhanced combustion. I have also used some sets of BP8ES, which have a slightly protruding middle electrode. Better ignition of the fuel mixture.
- Optimum position of electrodes. If you are serious about it, use many spark plugs and mark them with a felt tip pen, so you know exactly where the middle electrode is pointing, when tightened Down, and then choose a set that gives the best position of those middle electrodes, in relation to the inlet.
- Heat grade on plugs. Correct me if I am wrong, but I seem to remember, that NGK's and Champions heatscale are opposite to each other.
- The high voltage cables. From the coils to the spark plugs, can corrode or come Loose. Turn them securely Down, and every few years cut a Little bit off. Yes, then are glued to the coils, bit can be renewed.
Also measure internal resistance (Ohm) on each spark plug socket.
- Starter relay. The starter relay can be sticking, and therefore not working or intermittenly working. There should be two clicks. One when it engages, and one when it disengages (letting go of the starter button).
- Starter. Can be old and fine looking, but if you take it apart the coomutator can be Black and filled with sod. Clean it up and reassemble, or eventually mill it Down a timy bit. Inspect coals and eventually renew, if they are real short.
- Switch gear. It is also worth noting, that the Nippon Denso switch gear on the RGS series are somewhat vague, as they can burn Down, or just become Black and non. or less-conductive inside. They have some small copper leads and springs inside, that are too small for the amperage. It is worth taking them apart, and clean them with for example electrical contact cleaner once a year. Real easy and prolongs their life.
- Light relays. Another real benefit would be to install two light relays, so that the existing light wires is feeding the relay switching on low and high beam, and the extra (4'th) unused fuse in the fuse bos, can be connected to the battery, and give direct power to the headlight/light.
Thereby saving the left side switch gear and the ignition switch too.
- Earth wire (minus). Finally the earth wire from the starter have to be looked at, as it can be real bad after all these years. It may look nice, but upon cutting up the Black insulation, it may have turned green, Black, corroded. Make up a new one.
- Battery poles. Also, keep the plus and minus on the battery perfectly clean, and smear a Little dab of silione grease on the "+" and "-". Prevents a voltage drop and a broken starter gear by preventing a backlash, so adds up to a better start. Use a bit of fine sand paper to keep surface of poles and cable connectors real clean.
I've only had Laverda for 22 years, and never had a starting problem, so I am new to this.
There are many other Things that potentially can go wrong, but we haven't determined all of these aforementioned Things yet. So JohnL will have to try them all out first.
Cheers,
Jacques.
