This post is from another forum. Hope it helps
1: Use either an araldite or another epoxy resin. If you're using superglue, use the gel form (It fills bigger pits much easier) and really work it into the pit.
2: I used 1200 grade wet/dry only and a lot of elbow grease.
3: You probably (with luck) will not need to take the forks off
4: Use something like a sanding block with the wet and dry as using hands and fingers has a tendency to recess the pits while you sand.
5:Use your wifes or girlfriends pantyhose rather than your own as it tends to snag causing holes.
Pitted Fork Stanchion Repair.
So your fork legs are pitted with rust spots in the hard chrome surface?
There are two problems with rust pits in the chrome; cosmetic and also that these rough spots will rip the fork oil seals in no time, if they are on a part of the tube where the sliders and oil seals run. Damaged oil seals will let the fork oil weep out, reducing the damping effect and compromising the ac tion of the front suspension. The oil can also get down into the front brake, reducing the braking effect.
This fix reduces the cosmetic problem, but doesn't make the forks look new. To do that, you need new forks for to get your old forks stripped of the hard chrome layer, and then get them re-hardchromed. This is expensive and it can be hard to find someone that does hard chroming. However, the Superglue method is a good, long-term fix to keep the seals from getting chewed up the first time you hit a big bump or pull the front end down to tie the bike onto a flatbed. It makes a smooth, hardwearing surface over top of the rust pits and stops the pits from getting bigger.
I got this idea from trying to remove a dry blob of superglue from the top of my work bench.
This job is best done of a warm day or in a heated workshop to allow the solvent, water and superglue to dry quickly.
Items needed:
Solvent cleaner (I used CRC Contact Cleaner which is very good for the job but there are many other choices)
Wet And Dry Sandpaper (I used #400 and #800 Wet-and-Dry but if you are after a better finish I'd be using #600 and #1200 instead. This was only what I had in the drawer)
Superglue
Seal pick or other fine metal probing tool
Old stocking or pantyhose
METHOD:
Diassemble the front forks to the point where you have the tubes (stauntions) separate. This can be tricky, especially if you don't have an air-ratchet (rattlegun) to remove the damper rod screw at the bottom of each fork. Search the Forum section for how others have done it.
Carefully clean ALL traces of oil from the outside of the stauntions with the solvent cleaner and lots of rags. It must be completely clean of oil.
Use the seal pick to scrape any loose rust flakes out of the bigger pits
Use the more coarse wet and dry sandpaper, with plenty of water, to smooth over all the pits you want to treat. I used #400 but for a better looking job, start with #600. (Note: You don't have to treat pits that are higher up the tube than where the sliders and seals will reach. However, the treatment will stop the higher rust pits getting bigger). IMPORTANT: ONLY RUB UP AND DOWN THE TUBES. NEVER RUB ACROSS OR THE FINE LINES MAY CAUSE SEAL WEAR.
When the edges of the pits are down to the level of the rest of the chrome, clean up the stauntions and dry them off completely.
Dab a drop of Superglue on to each rust pit. This can take some time as many of the pits will just be tiny spots. Bigger pits will take a bit more to cover. Make sure to cover EVERY pit in the seal slider area, and leave to harden. This took about 30 minutes on the hot sunny day when I last did it but couild be a lot longer. Test on the biggest dabs to see if the glue has hardened.
When the glue is hard, smooth off every covered pit with the #600 Wet-and-Dry sandpaper, again using plenty of water on the paper. IMPORTANT: ONLY RUB UP AND DOWN THE TUBES. NEVER RUB ACROSS OR THE FINE LINES MAY CAUSE SEAL WEAR. I wrap a small piece of wet sandpaper around the tube and slide that.
The deeper pits will need a second coat as Superglue shrinks a lot as it dries. Put another dab of glue on any places that look like they might need it. Allow to harden and repeat the sandpaper rub.
Do a careful final sand with the finer grade of Wet-and-Dry, again using plenty of water. IMPORTANT: ONLY RUB UP AND DOWN THE TUBES. NEVER RUB ACROSS OR THE FINE LINES MAY CAUSE SEAL WEAR. I may have said that before...
Draw the stocking or pantyhose (or similar fine fabric) over the repaired area. Any pits still not covered will snag the fabric. Attend to these pits as above.
Your stauntions will now be as smooth as the day they left the factory and the Superglue will have made a permanant hard cover over the rust pits. The pits will still be visable and people will sometimes comment that your fork seals will not last but they will, as long as no new rust appears.
