G
Grant
Guest
He could drill holes to lighten them...breganzane said:Domed nuts are heavier than standard ones....
Oil leak 880SFCK
- Thread starter chrisk
- Start date
chrisk
Hero member
- Location
- Brisbane, Australia
Tippie said:
No, AB260, I have AB256 in them now. Eurocarbs sell same carb, with K4 Needles and AB260 tubes. Are you saying to use K4 with AB265 tubes?
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
Chris, the only change we made was to fit K4s. No need to do anything else. The carburation was fine elsewhere, just the main jet restriction issue was dealt with.
Don't bother with dome nuts anywhere but that one stud with passage to the oil. Would look a bit naff, I reckon! If the dome nut is too short, just add a few more washers!
Don't bother with dome nuts anywhere but that one stud with passage to the oil. Would look a bit naff, I reckon! If the dome nut is too short, just add a few more washers!
chrisk
Hero member
- Location
- Brisbane, Australia
Piranha Brother 2 said:
OK, thanks for the carb advise. BTW, I will leave my front nuts alone.
Remove oil,
Remove stud,
Clean Well,
Soorten stud to correct length,
Re- fit stud with loctite,
Fit std washer and nut.
Advantage?
Lighter,
No leak and pissing around for a special nut etc,
The clamping force with a harder wasbeer is significantst more than a soft one, copper is even worse,
Peace of mind That its right.
J
Remove stud,
Clean Well,
Soorten stud to correct length,
Re- fit stud with loctite,
Fit std washer and nut.
Advantage?
Lighter,
No leak and pissing around for a special nut etc,
The clamping force with a harder wasbeer is significantst more than a soft one, copper is even worse,
Peace of mind That its right.
J
CLEMTOG
Hero member
nice idea Julian, and perfectly sensible in almost all cases (no pun intended) but with Laverda's there is a strong tendency when removing studs that have been in situ for 40 years, and were possibly screwed into steaming hot cases (for retention) that you will get the stud out OK, and it will have a nice coating of crankcase thread on it as well!
best to leave stud in situ, because Helicoiling/Timcerting on a built motor is very often impossible, due to access.
If you can get a 4" grinder with a 1mm disc near it, or even a junior hacksaw, or even just the blade, then maybe trim the stud in situ, but I would be reluctant to remove it, as you suggest.
CLEM
best to leave stud in situ, because Helicoiling/Timcerting on a built motor is very often impossible, due to access.
If you can get a 4" grinder with a 1mm disc near it, or even a junior hacksaw, or even just the blade, then maybe trim the stud in situ, but I would be reluctant to remove it, as you suggest.
CLEM