Oil leak

hooksey said:
I still don't understand how the oil made it's way all the way to the horn.

Maybe he dipped it in the "Honey Pot"

My money,s still on the Tac drive cable o-ring  ;)
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Because of the o?l pump?

Paul
 
By "loose" do you mean not screwed down snugly into the hole or wobbly sideways like a loose tooth?

If it's the former, no problem. Just take it out, put a dab of red Loctite on it and screw it back in. Don't over-tighten it into the bottom of the blind hole though. Finger tight will do. The Loctite will hold it in place.

If it's the latter, there are a number of options depending how badly it's stripped. If it's not too bad and there's still some thread left, you could try Loctite Form-A-Thread. I wouldn't recommend such a product for a heavily loaded thread such as a head stud, but in this case it's only holding a little cover in place. If it doesn't hold, then you're no worse off than before. Here's a video of how the Loctite thread repair stuff works

I'm not a Loctite salesman. It's just that their stuff is decent quality and generally does what it says on the packet.

If the thread is pretty much gone, or the above solution doesn't work, then you'll need a mechanical repair like Helicoil or TimeSert. You may find that Helicoil gets some bad press on this forum. I'm not sure why as it's a perfectly adequate thread repair system.
 
Dellortoman said:
If the thread is pretty much gone, or the above solution doesn't work, then you'll need a mechanical repair like Helicoil or TimeSert. You may find that Helicoil gets some bad press on this forum. I'm not sure why as it's a perfectly adequate thread repair system.
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Sure is! We have various bits and pieces hanging in our reactors that have helicoil repairs.
 
The oil leak initially looked like a problem I had on the SF1, when the crankcase breather hose was constricted at the end. I had similar amounts of oil coming from the tacho drive. It was on the way to MOT too, not ideal!
 
If the thread is pretty much gone, or the above solution doesn't work, then you'll need a mechanical repair like Helicoil or TimeSert. You may find that Helicoil gets some bad press on this forum. I'm not sure why as it's a perfectly adequate thread repair system.
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We used to use them in the aircraft industry too with no problems (I do prefer TimeSert  though) 😊.
 
This video is interesting if you're into the engineering of thread inserts. It's half an hour long so you may want to grab a cup of coffee.

Basically the bloke does a series of pull-out tests in aluminium for various thread insert systems (tested against a control of no insert). As expected, all inserts out-performed the bare aluminium threaded hole. But interestingly, Helicoil gave the best result of all the thread repair inserts, including Time Sert. Only Big Sert outperformed Helicoil.

 
There was some soft stuff on the stud, so maybe it was 'repaired' previously. The stud fits in the hole so I think I will try Loctite first. I have Loctite 648 and 221, which one should I use?
 
If the stud fits OK and the thread isn't damaged, what's your problem?

I wouldn't use either of the Loctite products you mention. 648 is a bearing retaining compound (not for threads) and 221 is a weak threadlocker.

I generally use red Loctite (263 - high strength) for studs that never have to come out, although they can be removed if necessary with application of heat. I wouldn't use anything weaker than blue (243 - medium strength).

 
I fixed the stud with Loctite 243 and replaced the 2 front o-rings. The new o-rings are smaller and better fitting, maybe that was also part of the problem. The bike has run several minutes without a leak.
 
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