One for the Aussies...... I guess.

80mille01

80mille01

Full member
G`day

Where will I find the correct resistor caps and suitable leads for my beast.  Please refresh my memory, what resistance do I need.
Gonna use dyna coils I reckon. What ohms, my memory is crap..
Just gotta get a degree wheel and a dead stop and we`ll be ready to go.... yeeeeeeharrrrrrr..

Thanks guys,  Ross.
 
Hi Ross

typically the green 3 ohm Dyna coils, or the TEK 3 ohm coils from various Japanese bikes like Kawasaki 250's, lots usually on eBay cheap.

Dyna also does a really decent NON resistor plug cap and wire set if you don't care about fuzzing your neighbours electrics. I don't. The Dyna NON resistor plug wire sets typicaly come with simple rubber plug caps already bonded on both ends of each wire, then you cut the wires in half or whatever length you need and fit the coil ends, easy. I just fitted a set of the Dyna plug wire sets to my KZ 650 SR build, nice quality stuff.

Dyna also makes various resistor plug wire sets, but I would pass on those.

Use a NON resistor spark plug, NGK BE 8 typically.

If you absolutely insist on using a resistor plug cap, NGK does nice plug caps, I wouldn't go above 5 ohms resistance myself.

another alternative for NON resistor plug wires is PACKARD 440 solid copper core, you can often find it from various eBay vendors, excellent stuff, thypically comes in like 25 foot lengths with a choice of spark plug and coil ends for you to fit when you cut everything to length.

Paul LeClair

ps does this answer make me an honourary Aussie....? ;)
 
Hey Paul,

Excellent info, ta.
I thought it was around 3 ohms, just wasnt sure..
Dont care about the neighbours electrics.. Care about my own though.  :D  Probably wouldnt do much for the logger that will see
periodic service on the bike..
Just gotta find out where to get the stuff locally in Sydney.

Honourary Aussie??  Mate, I think you passed the requirements for that ages ago..
 
I think Paul missed a "K" from the plug cap resistance figure. 5K Ohms is typical. 5 Ohms is pretty much no resistance.

Resistance in the HV spark plug circuit does a couple of things. It reduces RF interference to nearby electronic equipment, and it changes the characteristics of the spark.
The resistance does nothing until the plug fires (because there's no current flowing until the spark fires) then it slows down the rate at which the coil discharges, giving a longer (although slightly cooler) spark. The longer spark can actually be helpful in some conditions. It may eliminate misfires and smooth out idling, or it may not. It depends on the engine and state of tune.

Some resistance is a good idea if you carry any electronic equipment on your bike such as mobile phone, GPS, on-board computer (it's been done) or even the electronic ignition itself. HV feedback interference is not unknown in electronic ignitions.

Most plug leads these days are the resistance type, so resistor plug caps may not be necessary. Don't use resistor caps with resistor leads or you may introduce too much resistance.
Likewise don't combine resistor caps or leads with resistor plugs (NGK resistor plugs have an "R" in the designation, meaning they have a 5K Ohm resistor built in).

Cheers,
Cam

 
That explains something, the kids were moaning that whenever I start the argy up the TV goes spastic, loses picture and sound. The aerial is right above the garage. Mind  you they wouldn't be able to hear it over the argys noise anyway so no bad thing....
 
Hey Cam,
5k.. that rings a bell.. Sometimes can get a bit confused with electrickery. Just need to stop and think..
Interference is the big issue. I dont have a clue if the ignition is susceptible or not, but the logger most definitely is..
Gotta be real careful where the sensor cables run in relation to ignition HT cables..
On a related note, the m-unit install is pretty much roughed in.. Nearly got everything working.. Just need to find my ignition key..

Ciao,  Ross.
 
Hi Ross, Noticed in your last post that you are using an m-unit. Thinking of using one of these myself, Would be interested to know your thoughts on it. I.E. build quality, how much does it simplify the loom etc. Cheers,
              Mark
 
Looks neat, but what happens if it shits itself out beyond Woop Woop ::)
 
We'll call you, that's where you live isn't it?

Yeah I agree, but well bit electronics are pretty reliable these days. Most of the functionality could be hot wired to get yourself out of a mess.
 
Hi Mark,
M-unit removes about half the wiring to the switchgear. Much easier to figure out whats what. Biggest thing is it removes the load current from the switches.. Pretty solid looking thing. If I mount it properly, it should prove reliable.

Ciao,  Ross.
 
One limitation of the M-Unit is that it's designed for markets where headlights are required to be on all the time. You can only switch between high and low beam. You can't actually turn the lights off without putting in a couple of additional relays. If you have one of those headlight flash buttons on your handlebar switches, that will need another relay too.

So you end up with a pile of relays on the bike just to get around the limitations of the M-Unit. If they incorporated those functions into the unit itself, it would turn a good product into an excellent one.

Cheers,
Cam
 
Gee Cam, thanks for that info, I was starting to think an M-unit would be a good addition to the Motodd. Not being one to ride with H/Lights on during the day I'm totally put off now.
 
M-unit plus starter relay (m-unit starter relay function not man enough)

Sachse ignition with a bank of 4 relays underneath to allow healamp on/off/flash and engine kill
 

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motoddrob said:
Gee Cam, thanks for that info, I was starting to think an M-unit would be a good addition to the Motodd. Not being one to ride with H/Lights on during the day I'm totally put off now.
Click to expand...

I must have a built in idiot magnet which means I drive with the lights on no matter what I drive. Only helps to a certain degree as some idiots are light blind as well as motorcycle, car, 4wd, and truck blind resulting in the "Sorry, I just didn't see you"
 
Cam / Grant,

A short update on where i am at..

M-unit fully wired.. roughly... Everything works.. :o Even have single wire tail light operational... Headlight comes on after start cycle.. no big issues with that. Dont really care either way..

Grant, I reckon your woes will mostly vanish if you set the unit up.. pretty simple, just do it.. :D you know you want to..lol..

If they dont, you may have to start removing some of Cams "upgrades" to see whats stopping it. :( Good luck ..

Off to borrow a timing wheel and dead stop off a mate, set the ignition then fuel and oil, then maybe make a lot of noise  :D :D :D

Ciao,  Ross.
 
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