Piston wrist pin keeper install

Rockitdoc

Rockitdoc

Hero member
Location
Fort Collins, Colorado
OK, I usually do the best I can with a screwdriver, wedging the tough little keeper into the slot.  This often results in a scratched piston skirt, a hole in my hand, the keeper jetting across my shop never to found again, or all of the above.  Is there a tool for this (no doubt), or just a technique I have yet to master?

Thanks in advance.

S

 
Dellortoman said:
Real men use their fingers.  :D

There is a tool though
Click to expand...

Yeah, I found that.  And, I wanted to buy another tool today, but in the interest of time, I just used my fingers....by using the mechanical advantage provided by a set of large pliers.  Done.

Thanks, anyway.

Now, the bigger question:  Is this base gasket kaput?  Or, since the breach is inside the motor, will it still seal?

P1020124_zps8e7fe7bd.jpg




 
Yep, they can be really pesky critters!

For many years now I have followed the practice of removing the little buggers from one side (the most accessible) and pushing the gudgeon pin out from the warmer up piston. When it comes to re-install I put the piston(s) in the barrel(s) and lower onto the conrods, pushing the wrist pin in and clip...

I don't have any piston ring clamps.

James
 
Rockitdoc said:
Yeah, I found that.  And, I wanted to buy another tool today, but in the interest of time, I just used my fingers....by using the mechanical advantage provided by a set of large pliers.  Done.

Thanks, anyway.

Now, the bigger question:  Is this base gasket kaput?  Or, since the breach is inside the motor, will it still seal?

P1020124_zps8e7fe7bd.jpg
Click to expand...

Use a fresh gasket.
 
If it's the old (used) gasket, best to replace it as James advised.

If it's a new gasket that's been damaged, I can't see a problem using it. Those holes are the oil passages that drain oil from the camshafts and valve gear back to the sump. So if they leak internally, the oil will still end up in the sump. The part of the gasket that stops oil escaping to the outside world appears to be intact.

Cam
 
Dellortoman said:
If it's the old (used) gasket, best to replace it as James advised.

If it's a new gasket that's been damaged, I can't see a problem using it. Those holes are the oil passages that drain oil from the camshafts and valve gear back to the sump. So if they leak internally, the oil will still end up in the sump. The part of the gasket that stops oil escaping to the outside world appears to be intact.

Cam
Click to expand...

It's an 'almost new' gasket.  It's been torqued to almost the head gasket torque (before the stud broke) then removed with the rest of the motor.  I'm inclined to replace it, but I would really like to get this thing running.  I don't have another in the shop, so replacing it will set me back another week.
 
just as an aside, use a new gasket, its just not worth it, you don't want to see it for five maybe ten years do you? ( a very light smear of grease on both sides is good as well,and when fitting it, place it on the bottom of the cylinder where it will be held in place by the liners and is one less thing to worry about when installing the pistons and rings etc.
CLEM
 
CLEMTOG said:
just as an aside, use a new gasket, its just not worth it, you don't want to see it for five maybe ten years do you?
CLEM
Click to expand...

Correct.  Don't want to take this apart again any time soon.

CLEMTOG said:
a very light smear of grease on both sides is good as well,
Click to expand...

Really?  Grease.  Not done that before.  Lithium-based axle grease?
 
Dellortoman said:
No.
An SFC 1000 base gasket is a flat piece of paper-like stuff with holes in it.
A 76 3CL is a motorcycle.

Sometimes I can be an annoying prick  :D
Click to expand...

:LOL: That's a gold moment on this forum ........... thanks, I'm still chuckling over it.  :D
 
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