Primary Chain - Tensioner Pad Spring

  • Thread starter Thread starter laverlesmains
  • Start date Start date
L

laverlesmains

Guest
So I popped off the left side engine case to give it a good polish.  About to reassemble and there's a spring poking thru the chain tensioner pad...  Which way does the spring align ?  Parallel to the engine case or perpendicular?  Can't tell from the online manuals.

Thanks
 
From memory, the loop end presses against the engine case, the two prongs fit through the hole in the tensioner, fiddle around a bit and the orientation should become self-evident. HTH

Terry
 
HTH.... Hag
Laverda%252520Jota%252520Primary%252520drive%252520%2525283%252529.jpg
 
excellent.. many thanks.

Now that I've exposed the chain, I wondering if I should replace it.  The bike has 10,xxx miles - 16, xxx km on it and I'm assuming it's an original chain.

If not, how tight do you adjust the tensioner once the case is back on?  Finger tight?


Thanks
 
Replace the chain and tensioner to be on the safe side. Wolfgang Haerter sells both with the tensioner as an exchange unit. Rather than using an inferior chain, you could try Andychain on this forum; he supplies a duplex chain (a Mercedes camchain) that is almost as strong as a triplex chain (and far better than original chains from 30+ years ago). I have one, very quiet, wears extremely slowly.

Tensioning the chain (whether you replace it immediately or not) is done by turning the tensioner screw in with the engine running until you hear an interference noise, then backing it off a full turn and locking it.

Ken
 
Thanks Ken but strength is not an issue but durability. There are many issues with multistrand chain too boring to go into.

If the chain aint worn then dont replace. If it then replace as a matter of course.

Happy Christmas all.

Andy
 
At least if you replace it you know how many miles it has done.
Cheap insurance vs a potentially 30-odd year old chain..
New crankcases are a tad more expensive.
 
well got it back together and adjusted.    Hopefully properly.

I've put a sum total of 40-50 miles on it since getting it last week, and need to drive it to the DMV today to get title transferred.    It runs quite nicely, but I am noticing the ignition goes squirrelly at >5000.  I think I'll put about another week's riding on it to better understand the bike - and then strip it down for refreshing.

I've got a giant parts list building for when the Aussies release Wolfgang back to his shop.

Thanks for the photos & tips on this thread.

 
What's the purpose of the spring on the primary tensioner? It obviously preloads the tensioner arm against the adjuster bolt, but for what purpose I'm not sure. Possibly to stop it bouncing up and down if there's any slack in the chain. Perhaps to reduce noise? A fellow Laverda owner here just discovered that his spring is missing, but it doesn't seem to have had any adverse effect on anything.

Cheers,
Cam
 
Dellortoman said:
What's the purpose of the spring on the primary tensioner? It obviously preloads the tensioner arm against the adjuster bolt, but for what purpose I'm not sure. Possibly to stop it bouncing up and down if there's any slack in the chain. Perhaps to reduce noise? A fellow Laverda owner here just discovered that his spring is missing, but it doesn't seem to have had any adverse effect on anything.

Cheers,
Cam
Click to expand...

It just pre-loads the adjuster ball end against the ball socket in the pad..to prevent the pad from vibrating. Most likely a concern with wear in that contact point.
 
I have the lytedrive (which I intend to replace at some stage)

Would the process be the same? Tighten until it makes a noise then back off one turn?

Cheers
ED.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top