Question regarding hydraulic clutch conversion for SF2

Yogi said:
It may not help to get the thread back on track regarding fitting hydraulic clutch case to the SF2, but I'd just like to say that I have no issues with regard to the amount of pull required to operate the cable clutch - that is not my reason for wanting to look at a hydraulic conversion - my problem is related to the routing of the cable when using the adjustable Jota bars with the standard headlight.  I can either change the angle of the bars or look at a hydraulic setup instead, and I don't want to change the bar angle.

I have tried a cable clutch with the extension arm that Phil mentions and it is true that it does make it a lighter action, but you get used to the standard pull after a while and have the added benefit of being able to crush walnuts with your left hand after a while..

Also ridden a Jota and 750 with broken clutch cable, as well as a buggered hydraulic set up and other than the ocassional frantic neutral searching in the last few feet before stopping it was OK.

Yogi
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?
 
Paul,

No worries mate!

With the bars in the position that I like, the clutch cable exits the lever bracket pointing dead at the headlight shell in such a manner that the cable takes a hard right, downward route behind the headlight shell.  The clutch works fine, but the tight curve as it exits the bracket is going to do the cable no good over time, and looks plain wrong.

I thought I might be able to route it differently, but can see no answer other than changing the headlight bracket or perhaps going to a CEV headlight unit with hopefully more room to play with due to the different "shell" of the CEV unit.

I have also been considering whether to upgrade the front brakes from the standard Brembo system to a newer one, in order to shorten my braking distance.  That might also lend itself to matching an upgraded brake master cylinder/lever to a hydraulic clutch unit, thereby solving two issues at once).

Having just done the old rag doll somersault over the bonnet of a car that came through a Stop sign the other week (I braked heavily to miss the bugger, but just ran out of gap!), I'm keen to see any increase in braking performance - even if this appears to some as an over-reaction.

As for the accident, I reckon I hit the car's front wheel at maybe 5-10kph, but it was enough to give me a good launch!  Both bike and rider had a very lucky escape from serious damage, the low speed of the impact (and the rider's superior aerodynamic body mass) contributing to the more healthy-than-could-have-been overall result.

The missus knows nothing about it, and I explained the bruising and slight stiffness away by saying it came from falling off a boat onto the dock at work.

If anyone has a perfect condition SF2 front guard and ND instrument brackets, I'd be keen to talk to you.  Luckily, I had not put Marcel's new ND clocks on the bike as yet.

Yogi

 
Yogi said:
... the clutch cable exits the lever bracket pointing dead at the headlight shell in such a manner that the cable takes a hard right, downward route behind the headlight shell. 
Click to expand...

Drill a hole through each side of the headlight shell and poke the clutch cable through.  ;)


The missus knows nothing about it, and I explained the bruising and slight stiffness away by saying it came from falling off a boat onto the dock at work.
Click to expand...

You'd better hope she doesn't read this forum then  :o
 
Andrew, doesn't sound right to me...

That cable, in a variety of positions of the bars, should not foul on the headlight. Have you explored all options in the bars..? rotation, up/down etc.. and in any case, once you fit a hydraulic line won't it do the same..if that's how close your bars are in relation to the headlight..?

Hydraulic conversion is a good idea though mate.. I did it to Monty and he's never been the same.. :P

8)

 
Paul,

the too-tight curve on the cable is as it exits the clutch lever bracket - a shorter cable would not help with this.  I could change the height of the adjustable bars, or go back to standard low rise bars, but I like the current bar position in conjunction with the rear sets.

Hence my thinking about going to hydraulic.

Yogi

 
Yogi time to maybe compare a pic of yours to pics of other bikes.On mine having a comfy bar position and having the bars and master cyinder miss everything and clear the tank isnt easy.Have you considered a set of ape hangers
 
Nothing is impossible,would you believe I have 2 mastercyinders on the left bar of my Husky dirtbike.The hydro clutch and one for the rear disc brake mounted on a 50mm bit of extra handlebar under the proper bar both reachable without releasing your grip.Not to mention the compression releases lever as well.You can achieve anything if your stupid enough.BTW there are very good reasons why I did this involving avoiding crashing but to complicated to go into.Works really well for me.
 
Those left thumb brakes are really expensive,but by the time I went in circles trying lots of things it would have been cheaper.I have a Recluse centrifugal clutch on the Husky,great gadget except when you have crashed on a big hill,no engine spin means no engine braking even in gear = sliding backwards unless you can use the rear brake,lift bike off the ground and away it rolls even in gear.It was fun solving the problem,Recluse make a left brake kit but it doesn't fit with Hydro clutches.
 
Vince,

Maybe that is the answer - I'll use the Recluse left brake kit with the little handle for the rear drum brake, then use the left hand foot pedal that was for the rear brake for the clutch instead!  Need to get a shorter clutch cable made up, but it is going to be a more direct route to the clutch itself..

Bingo - problem solved!
 
Yogi said:
I'll use the Recluse left brake kit with the little handle for the rear drum brake,

Bingo - problem solved!
Click to expand...

WTF  :o :o :o

Sounds like you need to buy a scooter matey if its all getting too hard for you
 
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